I’ve made a lot of these insulated hoods with varying styles of construction. This is a really easy do-it-yourself (DIY) project, especially if you can use pieces from a fleece blanket that already has a nice hem that can work as a channel for a draw cord.
I love DIY projects that are simple to construct. Hoods and balaclavas can get complicated when you want to build them with fitted contours, etc. I’ve found that a simple tube works remarkable well and with the “face hole,” it allows me to wear the hood around my neck, or pulled up and over to be a beanie.
I’ve sewn layers of fleece or added insulation between outer layers to create very warm winter hoods that were absolutely roasting hot. In three-season backpacking, I’ve found that using a single-layer hood/balaclava works wonders at keeping warm.
The 3-layer Insultex version I made weighs only 5 oz (142 g). The single-layer fleece versions weigh around 2–3 oz (57–85 g).
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Do you have instructions or approximate dimensions on the fitted taper hood (the last one)? Love the book. My son, who is a Scout, surprised me by asking questions about “widow-makers”. Obviously reading your book too.
Thanks Roger! For the fitted hood, use the same overall pattern, only cut a triangle of fabric from the bottom, roughly a 45-degree angle from the back of the neck to the front. What this achieves is eliminating excess fabric to save a little weight and bulk.
For one of these, I added a double layer of insulation around the head, but not the neck and it worked out great. You can also see how I added a triangle slit of fabric in the front to create a more 3D shape so I could cinch up the front around my nose.
Super you also made hoods! Personally, the models I realize some years ago, were a little more complex, less “square”. And I had split legs that cover the upper back and torce, very nice against the cold!
ooops!!! I didn’t leave the comment at the right place! Sorry.