The humble hammock has been around for thousands of years, and it is still used today in parts of the world as a primary sleeping accommodation. Yet many people I speak with think hammocks are “uncomfortable,” or it will hurt their back,” or “they’re great for summer lounging only,” or “it’s too easy to fall out.” A lot of these misconceptions come from the modern rope hammocks with their spreader bars and large woven nets. These hammocks are notoriously tippy, due to their high center of gravity and tight pitch. Unfortunately, they’ve given authentic hammocks a bad wrap.
Most camping hammocks are based on the original, authentic Brazilian or Mayan styles of South America with their deep sag, tight weave, and gathered ends.
Here are some quick tips for getting started with hammock camping, including getting that perfect Brazilian hang.
1. Use webbing straps around trees or other anchor points. One to 1.5 in (2.5 to 3.8 cm) polyester or polypropylene webbing straps help disperse the weight and reduce damage to trees or other objects. Polyester and polypropylene are also low-stretch, so you won’t sag during the night (avoid nylon straps, which stretch).
1. Angle your hammock suspension (rope) at around 30°. Pitching a hammock too tight between anchor points puts an enormous amount of force on the suspension lines and hammock, leading to potential failure (and discomfort). A tight pitch also raises the center of gravity, making the hammock unsteady. Pitching the hammock at 30° ensures you get a deep sag (tip #2).
2. Get a deep(ish) sag. Like a friendly smile, a hammock should be low in the center and high near the ends. With a deep sag, it is very difficult to accidentally fall out, thanks to the low center of gravity and high fabric walls. A deep sag allows you to lay on the diagonal (tip #3).
3. Lay on the diagonal. A lot of beginners try to sleep in line with the hammock, curving their bodies into a banana shape. I find that this takes a lot of effort, because with a good sag, your feet naturally slide to one side or the other, finding a “pocket” of fabric. By angling your body askew of center, you fall into a ergonomically flat position (it looks a bit like a recumbent bicyclist), where the hammock takes away all the pressure points naturally. The diagonal lay is the key to comfort in a gathered-end hammock.
4. Insulate underneath. Hammocks are a godsend in hot, muggy areas where the extra air circulation makes outdoor camping tolerable. But as temperatures drop below 70°F (21°C), you’ll start to feel the effects of convective heat loss known as Cold Butt Syndrome (CBS). A sleeping pad (closed-cell foam or self-inflating) works great, and some hangers use them year-round. Purpose-built “under quilts” are another popular option for keeping you warm underneath. For hot summer nights, you may only need a thin blanket to regulate your temperature.
5. Guard against flying bugs. When flying bugs (mosquitos, moths, midges, biting flies, etc.) are a problem, you’ll want bug netting to protect you. Some camping hammocks have sewn-in netting, but you can purchase after-market netting too. My Hammock Manufacturer List indicates which retailers sell hammock bug netting.
6. Protect yourself from rain. A basic 8×10 tarp is more than adequate to protect you from rain and wind. You can also find models with extra tie-outs for more pitching options. You can pitch tarps in a variety of styles, including a basic diamond configuration, an “A”-frame, or a fully-enclosed shelter with doors on the ends.
Read More: Pitching options for a 10×10 tarp
Is an 8×10 tarp adequate even for a hammock that measures 10 ft long?
Yup! Remember that a Brazilian-style hammock is hung with a sag — never flat — so a 10 ft-long (3 m) hammock “shortens” to less than 9 ft (~2.5 m). Also, with an 8×10 ft (2.4×3 m) tarp, you would pitch it on the corners creating an asymmetric coverage. The ridge line on this asym pitch is almost 13 ft (4 m)! This is plenty of coverage for a 10 ft (3 m) Brazilian hammock. https://theultimatehang.com/2012/07/hammock-camping-101/
So you’re saying that an 8×10 will be adequate only if pitched on the corners? Would a 10×10 be excessive?
Instead of pitching a square or rectangular tarp from the corners, you can always pitch it as a square A-frame on the 10 ft (3 m) side. You’ll have less end-to-end coverage depending on the size of the tarp. Each person will have their preference, but anywhere from 6 in (15 cm) to 1 ft (30 cm) over each end of the hammock will provide enough coverage.
A 10×10 ft (3×3 m) tarp will have a diagonal ridge line length of 14 ft (4.2 m), which is plenty of coverage for any hammock.
Don’t forget the properties of water adhesion as water can still get to your hammock by trickling down the suspension lines. A bit of paradise around the middle of your suspension lines will stop the water by making it drip
Sorry I meant paracord.
I’d be fine with a bit of paradise.
Should the lines be 30 degrees from horizontal before or after entering the hammock?
Before. All hammocks will sag once weight is applied, but this is what you see as the force is being applied.
Your answer has lead to some confusion. The hammock itself will sag as weight is added to the hammock but typically the suspension lines, even with a structural ridgeline, will also drop down below the original 30 degrees from horizontal after weight is added to the hammock (person enters the hammock). So is 30 degrees the best angle “before” entering hammock even if the suspension lines drop to as much as 45 degrees after? Some people weigh a lot especially if two hammocks are side by side using Dutch’s double whoopie hooks, could be over 500 lbs of tension on the webbing straps coming from the trees.
I have an Adjustable Structural Ridgeline set at 9′, which according to the 85% rule is correct for my hammock. Do I still need to find the 30* angle?
Short answer: yes.
One of the misconceptions that has sprung from hammocks with structural ridge lines is to pitch the hammock taut between the anchor points since the hammock’s sag is unaffected. This has had catastrophic effect in some cases where ridge lines have snapped under the load. In the real world, it is nearly impossible to hang the hammock perfectly taut as all suspension line will have some stretch, especially when the line is under extreme tensile forces.
The laws of physics still apply to a hammock with a structural ridge line, so you increase the tension force as you lower the hang angle.
Is a 12×12 ta to big? I use eno outside but would like one to cover my handmade bigger ones also.
A 12×12 with a diamond pitch would give you a ridge line of 17 feet — very, very large. A 9×9 tarp on a diagonal is closer to 13 feet, which is more reasonable. Most hammock tarps are between 11 and 12 feet ridge lines, so I think you would be okay with a 9×9, unless you want to pitch it as a rectangle, then the 12×12 is better.
Thanks. That is sort of what I figured. Tough call.
Tarp was what I meant. I like the kelty tarps but it’s 9×9 or 12×12
Hi. This feels like a silly question but here goes: Can I use any tarp with my Grand Trunk Skeeter hammock? I’m eyeing a couple tarps from other manufactures but they seem to imply that they only work with their hammocks? Thanks!
Think of tarps like accessories: mix and match to your liking. The main consideration is ridge line length, to ensure the hammock is covered end to end. I often use a poncho tarp from GoLite, pitched on the diagonal. After the ridge line length is covered, anywhere from a few inches or a foot in either side (depending in your preference) the next consideration is side coverage. There is a lot of variety there.
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After reading this article I tried hanging my hammock with sag about a million times and can’t seem to get comfortable. It’s weird because for me hanging my hammock with the least amount of sag possible is the most comfortable way for me to lay (I love it). But anyway, does anyone else like to hang like that. Also would a Kelty 9×9 be a good tarp?
Nic, what hammock do you have? Some smaller hammocks actually benefit from a much shallower hang. My Grand Trunk Ultralight gets perfect at about 20 degrees. What you’re attempting to do is get a diagonal lay, which improves the flat lay and the ergonomics on your back while eliminating spine and shoulder squeeze. That said, I know that some folks have no problem with a tight pitch and a “canoe” effect. The Speer hammocks were designed to do this. It’s not traditional, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t comfortable for some folks.
In a nutshell, do what works for you. If you find it is comfortable, stick with it! 🙂
I have the grand trunk ultralight. Thanks for the info!
So, because a hennessy hammock has an internal ridgeline for the bug net, and then the hammock curves beneath that, should you still tie it up at the 30* ? I’ve always pulled the sucker tight but seeing this info I might have it wrong. Still, Tom Hennessy has a video where he pretty much pulls it tight (though maybe not as tight as me). In your experience, should you still sag a hennessy?
You are correct that the ridge line on the Hennessy maintains an ideal sag for the hammock. That sag is what you get if you didn’t have the ridge line and you pitched it at 30-degrees. The nice thing about the Hennessy, or other models with structural ridge lines, is that you can pitch it tight and the hammock lay isn’t compromised.
That said, there are other benefits for pitching a Hennessy with a sag on the suspension lines instead of drum tight. First, you reduce the strain on all the components (a nice safety feature) and lower the tensile force against the anchor points. Second, if you connect your tarp directly to the Hennessy Hammock, you can avoid the “limp tarp” effect that happens when you pitch it too tight. A third benefit, which is really tangential, is that you develop skills that work with other hammocks, such as net-less Mayan-style hammocks. A lot of folks who start with a Hennessy end up getting other hammocks for family and friends that are less feature rich, but if they are accustomed to pitching things tight, the end up having problems.
Wow! Thanks for the quick response Derek. I’ll try some sag. The question is, given the unique construction of the Hennessy, should I adjust that angle? What would you recommend using to sag it? It always seems to dip quite a bit anyways.
Ahh. sorry. I just noticed that those are links you posted, and the one link contained a very specific answer to what I just asked. I appreciate it! I’ll be buying your book shortly for sure, as I’d love to delve deeper into the world of hammocks. Been using them for years but I’d like to be better.
So I just got a warbonnet blackbird XLC. Brandon mentions that you should hang the foot end of the hammock at least a foot higher than the head end. I noticed that you don’t mention anything about this. Is this recommended for other gathered end hammocks? It seems I lay the way Warbonnet recommends, my head would be closer and a little more center(still off to the side though) to the head end of the hammock while my feet would me much closer to the middle of the hammock and very much off to the side. I guess I’m just curious what you know about this.
Hanging the foot end higher is a technique for any hammock. It is a comfort tip but it isn’t required. If a level hang works you don’t need to modify. Hanging the foot end higher keeps your torso from sliding toward your feet and can help level your torso more than your feet.
If not using webbing, what do you suggest for cordage? I use both 1 & 2 person hammocks, so it needs to support a lot of weight, up to 300lbs. I’ve heard mixed thoughts on para. What would you suggest?
You should always use webbing around a tree for multiple reasons, including protecting the tree bark. Some webbing straps are long enough that they can do double-duty as the adjustable suspension as well, but mostly straps are used to create an easy anchor point where you connect your suspension.
I would not use paracord unless you weave it. One of my favorite is the Toggle Rope from Ship in a Bottle. One of the most common or popular lines used for suspension is 7/64 inch Amsteel. This stuff is strong as steel for its size and even floats on water. It’s the Holy Grail of hammock suspension. Sheathed Spectra line is also commonly used for hammock suspension.
I’ve seen a lot of posts on how to properly enter a hammock but none that explain proper exit. I have an ENO Doublenest. I use it both inside as my bed and outside along with my Nubé for camping but even with a good sag I’ve found it diffI cult to get back out. I’m probably doing something wrong.
Hmmm…the first thing that I notice you are doing wrong is trying to get out. Why would you want to get out of a perfectly comfortable, well hung hammock?
Now, if you absolutely insist on getting out of the hammock (if you have one of those “job” things or other duties you must attend to), then here are two ways to do it.
1. The practical approach. Swing both feet over the same side, plant them on the ground, sightly spread apart, and turn your torso a bit more towards that side so that you can push up with one arm. Push until you are sitting in an upright position. You then have the difficult choice to make, whether to stand up the rest of the way or let gravity win and pull you back into the hammock where life is good.
2. The super-duper method (not recommended if you have surpassed your personal prime). If you have a gathered-end hammock, cocoon yourself into it by pulling the material on both sides until you are in a deep sag, and then pinching the material tightly closed with your arms and legs, putting your knees into deep pockets of material. Then, invert yourself by quickly shifting your weight till the hammock and your whole body turn 180 degrees and are facing the ground. WARNING: DO NOT LET GO of the material you are pinching just yet. Peek out of the cocoon and look for any painful objects (e.g. if you are inside, a plastic toy your kids placed underneath you while you slept, and if you are outside, a hard poky root or a rock you did not remove before entering the hammock). At this point, you may release the legs first and avoid a face-plant, or go all-out and do a belly-flop. I recommend only going the belly-flop route on grass or blankets.
Excellent article and replies. I have been using a hammock since I was in scouts back in the late ’80s. The old fishnet style hammocks. Now I own four ENO double nest hammocks and routinely take my son and his friends to teach them how to use a hammock instead of a tent. I even took my hammock on my deployments with the military. We called them our hanging hooches.
One tip for the cool weather (anything below 65 degrees) is to use a vehicle solar shade, the kind with the shiny bubble type surface, as a sleep pad or over a thin pad. It will block the wind and reflect body heat to keep you warm and they are really cheap.
I also use a Kelty 12×12 as hanging shelter w/ door flaps to block strong winds.
I look forward to more articles.
Keep it Hanging
What is wrong with using paracord ? I’ve had no problems with it, although I’m sure some might have. I’m not a diehard paracord fanatic, but I am interested in hearing about issues others have had with it. I have an ENO Doublenest with Gaurdian bug net and Dryfly tarp, and have no issues.
I guess it depends on where and how you use paracord. Some folks have tried to use a single line of paracord for hammock suspension as a way to reduce weight, but the cord often fails. The 550 lbs load limit does not afford much latitude for dynamic strain or if the hammock is pitched too tight. The forces on each side of a hammock can exceed the load weight due to sheer forces. These forces can exceed 550 lbs pretty easily. Check out my hammock calculator to play with the numbers.
If you weave a few strands of paracord together, the strength will double, triple, or quadruple. Ship in a Bottle has done this with their commando-rope-style toggle rope suspension. I like these because they have a ton of adjustability and use beyond hammock straps.
Paracord also comes in handy for a lot of other uses, such as guy lines, throw lines, or other camp duties.
Also, paracord tends to stretch significantly under load and over time. If you’re ok with readjusting your setup a few times through the night, 550 might work for you. I’m partial to the amsteel whoopie slings.
Please help. My hamock is around 8 feet long and made for two. I can only hang from 14 foot rafters over my boat pier. I attach to knotted line. How do I get a 30 degree hang? How far apart should I go when hanging from the high? Last night was miserable with too much sag. Help.
Have you tried my hammock calculator? With an 8-foot-long hammock, you can hang from posts as near as 7 feet. Play with the calculator a little and let me know what you try.
I am brand new to hammocking. I recently bought a Nube shelter with Pares hammock. They were the only ones that offered what I wanted in a hammock. In the twenty minutes I’ve spent on your website, I’ve learned more than the three or four weeks I spent on YouTube before purchasing, and learned, consequently, that I’ve been setting up my Pares incorrectly. I need a good tip for achieving the 30-degree angle on the suspension lines.
First thing, I would go grab my book. It’s got everything in a nutshell. Next, check out my hang calculator. It helps show how to get the right hang angle until it becomes intuitive.
Excellent article. Thank you!
I use the “cowboy finger gun technique” the index finger is the barrel, the thumb stuck up in the air is the hammer…… when the barrel is held level, the angle from the end of the barrel (finger) to the tip of the raised hammer (thumb) will be very close to 30 degrees…. simply look at your finger gun in relation to your hanging hammock to see if your suspension is close.
Can you get a flat lay with an underquilt? It seems all the pictures of underquilts are bananas, and those of a angled lay are have either feet and/or heads off the hammock. Are these hammocks too small or do you generally lay with your feet out in a top quilt foot box? Should I be able to lay in my hammock (if correctly sized) with my head and feet still inside the hammock?
Absolutely! What you are probably seeing are promo shots that show an under quilt wrapped around a hammock with no one inside. When you sleep in a hammock correctly, diagonally, you sleep in that nice, ergonomically flat position. The under quilt moves to wrap around you in that same diagonal position. Your head and feet still stay inside the hammock. An under quilt will cover all or most of you, depending on the length of the quilt. I prefer 3/4 quilts, which covers from my shoulders to my lower legs, depending on the brand.
Let me know if that makes sense. I’m happy to post a photo or video to help.
When I try to achieve 30° angle my ridge line is very loose. If I tighten the suspension to snug the ridgeline once I lay in the hammock the ridgeline almost lays on me!
What am I doing wrong? ?
You may need to adjust your ridge line length….. with a thirty degree angle and a diagonal lay, your ridge line should be taunt …. not guitar string tight …..( when you are in your hammock ). If you will look at the hammock calculator on this site … notice the crazy changes in the stresses on the equipment with less than thirty degrees. (bottom line, keep the thirty degrees and adjust everything else to fit) Derek … If you disagree, please jump in here.
I think what gets tricky here is the difference between a catenary angle and a straight line angle. When you measure the angle you want the hammock in a straight line. I usually put a small item in my hammock to tighten up the line without weighing it down too much. It’s a little more art than science. The calculator and thumb-finger methods are starting points but don’t take into account fabric type and stretch with all the components, all of which affect the final angle, which is what we are estimating. If you find the hang angle is too slack, tighten it up. Fiddle a little until you find the right hang angle for your hammock.
What is the best way to get in a sleeping bag in a hammock?
So you have my book? I illustrate 3 ways. Probably the easiest (for me; personal preference) is to unzip the bag down to the foot box and leave it open, using the bag like a quilt by tucking my feet in and using around my shoulders. You need a pad or under quilt.
Hi there new to Hammocks and have just bought a Grand Trunk Skeeter Beeter Pro and Kelty Noah 12 tarp. I am 6’1″ & 145Kg and was wondering if you think the suspension kit that comes with the hammock will support me? I was looking at buying some nylon webbing straps and use them and the carabiner that comes with the Skeeter Beeter what do you think would be the best for someone of my size
I’d pick up a pair of webbing straps. Grand trunk sells Trunk Straps that work well.
QQ: I’ve got a Dream Hammock with a Hammock Gear hex tarp. Last time I was out, there were some pretty big storms and I pitched the tarp low over the hammock, so the lines tied around the tree below the straps, etc. It ended up keeping me dry, but there was one problem: The tight pitch meant that the tree straps rubbed against the edge of the tarp, if that makes sense. And cuben, while strong, does not handle abrasion well.
Any suggestions on adjustments to avoid rubbing the tarp? Or is this somethign I should live with and not worry about?
(Enjoyed your book, btw).
Thanks KY! A low storm pitch will bring the tarp in connection with the hammock suspension. One solution is to connect the tarp directly to the suspension instead of tying it up separately. Use a ridge line for the tarp across the suspension.
I want to start spending some time outdoors. Right now I have no equiment at all, not even a sleeping pad. I am trying to decide for equipment and I am not sure which hammock/manufacturer to choose.
My plan would be to have two setups:
One for cold weather/winter camping (from +10°C to -10°C). After reading your Q&A with Trevor Rasmussen, this would contain expensive under and top quilts from hammockgear.com.
Starting my adventures in spring, I have a few months before actually having to invest in those quilts. I wanted to start with a second setup, for 3-season camping (>+10°C). Not exactly sure what to pack here yet. I was hoping a sleeping bag (or quilt) plus sleeping pad would be enough, but many of the not-exactly-cheap underquilts you tested were only just suited for exactly that kind of temperatures, so how could a sleeping pad suffice?
I would love to hear your thoughts on that!
Great questions! A lot of folks who want a full season set up will start off with a 20°F/-7°C quilt system. It is easy to vent in the hotter months. For colder situations you can layer and even add a pad and/or a weather cover. Email me directly and we can chat about specifics that may be better suited for you.
Derek, what happens when one constructs a gathered end hammock by sewing a channel at each end of the fabric when the shape of the end cut of the fabric is dome shaped? Does that eliminate the center ridge, only to create other, more difficult problems? Obviously no one is currently doing that now.
It has been attempted, if that is your question. Shaped ends, both concave and convex, even different whipping or gathering styles. I tested one commercial version of a cat-cut hammock and it was very interesting. The overall hammock length, your height, and the hang angle are more significant factors to eliminating the center ridge on a rectangular hammock. https://theultimatehang.com/2013/09/simply-light-designs-streamliner-sl-hammock-review/
Since I’m a big fan of outdoor activities, I agree that hammocks are best for outdoor adventures, not only because of their lightweight features, but because other hammocks are also fitted for a king’s comfort. Have you tried the Serac Hammock? I’ve been using it for some time now, and it’s one of those good quality hammocks that can surely be compared to the Hobo hammock.
A lot of stupid questions and good answers.
Especially will a tarp work with other brand hammocks.
ANY free hanging tarp will work with any gathered end hammock if it is long enough to provide coverage.
One of the best advantages about hammock camping is the ability to MAKE YOUR OWN GEAR and achieve a PROFESSIONAL finish with minimal skills.
Plenty of tutorials on making and using everything “hammock”. Try that with a tent and see how far you get.
Of course manufacturers WANT you to buy their gear.
That is why independent forums exist-unbiased comparison of different systems.
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Is it necessary to have a big net go all around the hammock in order to prevent bugs from biting through the bottom of the hammock? Or can I just have some netting draped on top?
Depends on your comfort level based on the bug population concentration. If you use a pad or under quilt there is no worry of bite through. How well the net deals above you when only draped over is a technique used by some but I would only recommend it to folks who know what they are doing.
I put a pad in hammock, it slides around, I put sleeping bag in hammock, it bunches up in the middle. Have to spread it out after I lay on it. What a pain. Got suggestions? Thanks
Put your pad inside your sleeping bag. This helps keep things from moving around, and helps the bag from bunching a little. It’s not a perfect system because you do have a lot of material under you that can bunch up. Laying the bag open and sitting in the middle before you get in helps. I’ll admit that with a sleep my bag you will need to do some maneuvering to get situated at first. This is why under quilts are so much beloved. They are less fussy. But pads and bags can do the job of keeping you warm, you just have to work a little more.
I once fell out of a hammock and broke myself pretty badly but thats not going to happend after reading your tips.. Thank you for sharing it, now I have a different view on hammocks. It is just that I didnt know so much about them before.
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New to hammock camping and have yet to read your book – but I will! Thus far I’ve obtained everything I need except an underquilt – and I’m trying very hard to get good things at low prices as this is all a test for me now. After all, I might not like it out in the woods. Back to underquilts: they’re not cheap. I’m trying to accomplish the most comfortable summer night’s sleep with possible temps down to 60. I don’t want to try a pad as it seems too much to figit with for comfort. I’m aware blankets/comforters/etc beneath you can compress and lose their insulation benefits. . What recommendations do you have for a budget underquilt? Would a body heat reflective emergency blanket work to lay on? Would the Costco down comforter compress too much beneath me therefore offering very little insulation? Help me stay cheap!
I was like you when I first got started. Under quilts were (are!) too expensive, so I made my own. The poncho liner under quilt was my first attempt and it is still a popular item. Instead of a military poncho liner, you could substitute other items you have or buy, like the Costco down comforter.
Thanks Derek. Since my question I now have three nights in the hammock – two in my backyard and one at a Cub Scout one nighter with my son – and can confirm sleeping ON two of the Costco down comforters doesn’t do much for temps in the mid to low 60’s. I had cold spots waking me up several times. Yes, I’ve read all about the loss if insulation properties when these things are compressed but I had to learn it myself as part of this “process”. Thanks for the suggestion!
I have been hammock camping for several years and I am thoroughly enjoying it. However, after reading your book multiple times, spending time on this website, and practicing different techniques, I am still struggling with the perfect sag and the 30 degree angle. In particular I have recently been trying a 108 inch ridgeline on my hammock, but it has been causing me some confusion because it holds the hammock in a different position than it would if I removed the ridgeline. I use suspension straps with a cinch buckle, and I have a gathered end hammock. Any suggestions?
I would start with an adjustable ridgeline and get it to the length when you lay in your hammock and you’re in your “sweet spot.” Also, please note that the 30° hang angle and 83% ridgeline length are just recommended starting points. In my new book, I have more detail about some advanced techniques that look at hammock size, hang angle, and lay angle, and how they are interconnected. Smaller hammocks, for example, work better with a shallower hang angle (15–20°) where larger hammocks can go up to 45° and allow for a perpendicular lay.
I find ridgelines are best suited for jungle hammocks that have integrated bug netting. It not only helps keep the bug netting off the occupant, but also prevents the netting from getting ripped apart (particularly if the netting has been cut asymmetrically).
Also note that an empty hammock tends to sag with a catenary curve that if measured, will be different (more obtuse) than if the hammock is pulled taut and is measured with straight line angles. For more accurate results, measure your hang angle with the hammock pulled down in the center to create straight lines. This is easily achieved by placing a small weight in the hammock, such as a sleeping bag or water bottle.
Hey Derek, new to hammocking here so please pardon my dumb question:
What would be the knot to apply on the webbing strap or just half hitches would do? I’m not the Knots will easily slip off with those materials.
I would use a slippery Becket Hitch.
Ah that’s something new for me to learn, thanks for pointing me to the right place Derek!
what a value packed post this is. It cam quite handy.
I’ve been learning all I can to make better Hammock for myself. It seems I can’t get it right.
Here’s an article I found about making a whoopsie sling: http://datingwithnature.com/how-to-make-a-whoopie-sling/
I think it’s time to get your book and study what you have to say there.
I Absolutely love my hammock set up I use It almost everyday. The one problem I can’t figure out is setting up my bug net. I have the eno bug net. It seems no matter how tight I make my ridge line the net sags and lays right on top of me. Running out of ideas to fix this any recommendations?
Do you lay diagonal? The ridgeline keeps the net above you, but the sides are still a problem for most 360° nets. Adding a side pull out on the head side really helps.
What is making my hammock stretch to the ground? I’ve checked all of these typical things….
Strapping around tree – I’m using polypropylene
Suspension – Amsteel whoopie sling
Hammock – Ripstop non stretch
What’s the distance between your anchor points? While polyester and polypropylene stretch less than nylon, they still stretch, and if you have a long hang (>=15 ft) the stretch will be more pronounced. Is your hammock also polyester? Most hammocks are nylon, so there will be some stretch there too. The fabric weight makes a difference. A lightweight 1.0 or 1.5 fabric will stretch more than a 2.0 oz fabric. Email me a photo of your hang and maybe I can see something else.
Derek, I’ve got your book coming and I’m posting from my Grand trunk, currently hanging indoors from masonry mounted, adjustable wall anchors from Dutchware. I found your calculator very helpful in sorting out my first hang. The way the forces change with the hangle is incredible! Just wanted to say thanks for what I’ve gleaned this far!
This is actually really great. Getting these suckers up properly isn’t as easy as one would think. Thanks for the help, Derek!
Wow, this post is tight! and highly informative, would recommend this site. Most people struggle with the bug net, and you made is so easier here. Thanks a million, Derek!
Are you aware of a tried and tested system whereby the tarp can be pulled taut from the comfort of the hammock?
I want to be able to look at the sky from the hammock, but when ready for sleep, be able to finish erecting one end of the tarp over my head without getting out the hammock.
Great website! Very informative 🙂
You could use a continuous ridgeline and then attach the tarp. You could then use a line to pull the ridge of the tarp in place. But it’s not as simple as that since you need a way to get the side pull outs in place and anchored. I don’t know if that can be done without at least a little out of hammock effort.
Derek: Quick question about hang angle. We all know and agree that 30% seems to be about right. To be accurate, do you have any tips, suggestions on how to get to 30%. I mean, it seams to just be an eyeball, guesstimate kind of thing. Not to be overly specific, but I can see being at 25% – 40% and not even know it. I’m 6’1”, with an 11’ hammock. I’ve never heard or read anything about how, just be at 30%. Since a lot of stuff seems to flow from this hang angle, I’d like to get there on a regular basis.
All that said, I’ve never had any issues hanging my rig.
Sounds like you’re good to go! 🙂 If how you hang is working, then you’re doing it right! The 30-degree hang is a basic starting point. A recommendation. And it assumes a standard size hammock, occupant, and lay angle. It’s more nuanced than people think, but it makes it easier to explain. In my second book, I explain in more detail in the section on Advanced Hammock Camping how to calculate some of those variations.
But to your question, one simple way to measure is to use the thumb-finger method. Point your index finger straight out and your thumb extended to the sky. The imaginary line from tip of your thumb to the tip of your index finger is roughly 30-degrees and can be used to approximate the hang angle in the field.
Or, you can pick up an Amok Hammock Cup and use it as a handy multi-use measuring device. 🙂
I have a cheap shorter hammock that is 8.85′ by 4.60′ from Foxelli and I have a hard time getting a good diagonal lay in it. I am about 6’1 and 215 pounds. I’m sure I would benefit from a longer hammock but I really don’t have the money to buy a nice long one so I’m kinda stuck with it for now. What do you recommend I do when hanging it? I saw in an earlier comment on this page that some shorter hammocks benefit from having less of a sag as opposed to more. I will have to take it on a backpacking trip soon and need to make sure I have the setup right before I head out there to sleep in it. Thanks!
Yes yes! Short hammocks benefit from a much shallower hang than large / long hammocks. That’s what I recommend. Give it a try! Your lay angle won’t be as dramatic, but that’s okay. The point is to get on the bias and “drop” into the pocket created, even if it is minor. The point is to get your legs off the calf ridge.
water can still get to your hammock by trickling down the suspension lines.
Yes, very good point. In this example, we focus on basics, but in my book I describe these more complex scenarios to reduce or eliminate water seeping. It’s not a major problem and it gets complicated due to the type of suspension systems folks use, so there isn’t a universal answer. Some folks never have a problem and it may be because their suspension and attachment points are actually doing the work for them. In other cases, folks have to take specific action to keep water from seeping into their hammock. Check out my video on drip lines for more information.
I think a hammock is really great but simple contraption. It provides leisure and comfort and what’s good about it is you can bring it along with you on outdoor trips. I’ve got several from https://coalatree.com/collections/hammocks and it’s just amazing and simple! Plus the quality is really great too!
Diagonal laying is the perfect idea for a hammock.