Knots vs. Hardware

knots-v-hardware

Among hikers, backpackers, campers, Scouters, and pretty much any outdoor enthusiast, one topic seems to always spark debate: hardware devices or knots?

Are you a knot purist who sees hardware devices as redundant, a waste of time (or weight), or perhaps even an abomination that threatens the purity of primitive living skills? Or are you a “gear junkie” or “knot averse” who shuns knots like the plague, or looks at “knot heads” as backward, regressive, and maybe hard headed?

I’m speaking hyperbolically, of course; I harbor no ill will with either group. In fact, I find myself somewhere in the middle, mostly: I love knots, and yet also find hardware devices extremely useful and sometimes a lot of fun to tinker with.

Regarding Knots

I grew to love knots as a Boy Scout. It was one skill I was actually good at. I’ve always remembered the “core” knots and have used them throughout my life. I also remember being told that “a good knot is one that can be easily tied, holds fast when tied, and comes apart when you need to untie it.”

Taut line-hitch with a slippery half hitch on the end.
Taut-line hitch with a slippery half hitch on the end. The slippery hitch makes it easier to untie.

To be clear, these “good knots” still take time to learn and master. But more important is to know when and why certain knots can and should be used. Practice and experimentation pay off in dividends when you get out in the field.

Knots, when tied right, are simple, elegant, and efficient.

To tie a knot seems to be a simple thing, and yet there are right ways and wrong ways of doing it and Scouts ought to know the right way. Very often it may happen that lives depend on a knot being properly tied.

The right kind of knot to tie is one which you can be certain will hold under any amount of strain, and which you can always undo easily if you wish to.

The bad knot is one which slips away when a hard pull comes on it, or which gets jammed so tight that you cannot untie it.

Lord Robert Baden-Powell, founder of the scouting movement, taken from his 1908 edition of Scouting for Boys

There are a lot of knots out there, but I’ve found that a few “workhorse” variety are all I’ve really needed for most tasks, particularly with hammocks and tarps.

Basic workhorse knots everyone should know

  • Two half-hitches—used to secure a guy line, among other uses.
  • Taut-line hitch—great for adjustable tensioning of guy lines and even tarp ridge lines.
  • Clove hitch—I use this often for bear bagging and as a stake tie-off for some tarps, like those made with low-stretch fabrics.
  • Bowline—great all-purpose knot. I often use this on guy lines attached to a tarp. Often used as a harness for self and aided rescue.
  • Trucker’s hitch—great for tensioning guy lines or for rigging a continuous ridge line. The 3-to-1 mechanical advantage lets you more easily get a line tight. (A simpler variant is what ultra hiker Andrew Skurka calls the “McCarthey Hitch,” using a loop already tied in the line or the tarp as the pulley point.)
  • Lark’s Head knot—often used to attach suspension lines to hammocks or other eye loops over tie outs on tarps, etc. Very versatile.
  • Prusik knot—Often used in climbing and rappelling for self belay, the humble prusik is a simple knot with a lot of uses, especially for a sliding adjustment.
  • Becket hitch/Sheet Bend—The Becket hitch is the number one knot used to tie up hammocks in regions in South America. It is really easy to tie and release, and offers near infinite amount of adjustability. Using a loop on the end of a hammock and a long webbing strap is one of the lightest and simplest no-hardware hammock suspension system. I use a slippery version of the Becket hitch to make releasing even quicker.

(Honorable mentions: Fisherman’s Knot, and figure-8.)

Some folks avoid knots because of a perception that they are hard to learn. The key to mastering knots is practice. As a Scoutmaster, I removed all the hardware helpers off tent guy lines as a way to help my scouts practice and learn a skill.

Knot Pros

  • Doesn’t add weight
  • Versatile (a single knot can be used in multiple applications)
  • Knot tying is a learned skill that (if nurtured), doesn’t easily break, get lost, or fail

Knot Cons

  • Knots can degrade the strength of a rope up to 50% (depending on knot type)
  • Some knots “bind” when loaded, making them difficult to untie
  • Some line, such as dyneema, is very slippery and doesn’t hold knots well
  • Poorly tied knots can become risks, either to your gear or to yourself
  • If not used often enough, or without practice, you can forget how/when to use knots

Regarding Hardware

A LoopAlien is a like a two-headed figure-8 belay device, but miniaturized and full of surprising uses.
A LoopAlien is a like a two-headed figure-8 belay device, but miniaturized and full of surprising uses.

I believe that anyone going on a trek outdoors should know how to tie the basic knots listed above. Understanding these knots will help you improvise when hardware is not available, when it fails (which they do, especially the plastic variety), or when hardware is lost or forgotten, whether you are pitching a tarp or saving a life.

That said, hardware devices can be wonderfully useful. They can decrease set-up times, make adjustments quicker and easier (particularly in cold weather or with gloved fingers), provide mechanical tensioning, and quick no-hassle attachment.

I find hardware especially helpful when using thin, slippery line such as Dyneema (Spectra), which has been increasingly popular as a lightweight line, but it doesn’t hold knots well.

My criteria for “good” hardware is as follows:

  • The main function of the device must be obvious and inherent in the design.
  • The “no knot” method should be simple and straightforward without complex wrapping or weaving, defeating the purpose of going “knot-less.”
  • Secondary uses/functions are “discoverable” but should not get in the way of the main function or make it overly complex.
  • The device should solve a real issue or challenge, such as improving dexterity, decreasing/eliminating slippage, improving efficiencies, increasing strength, providing mechanical advantage, minimizing weight, etc.
  • The device should pack well when attached. Sharp points or burrs pose potential damage to fabric.
  • The device should be reasonably lightweight, yet strong enough for its intended function.

I think some hardware devices are solutions looking for problems, or present solutions that are overly complex or not necessary in the first place. If hardware claims to make things simpler and easier, then it should. Otherwise I don’t use it.

Hardware Pros

  • Reduces/eliminates slipping with certain materials
  • Provides quick attachment/detachment
  • Improves adjustability
  • Provides mechanical leverage with reduced friction

Hardware Cons

  • Weight! Gadgets can add significant weight to an overall system
  • Some hardware gadgets are overly complex and difficult to understand and/or use
  • Hardware can break, get lost, or left behind
  • Can be expensive

The best hardware options I’ve used are those that address specific issues in a simple way. It’s like eating salad with a spoon and then one day someone hands you a fork and everything changes. It wasn’t that the spoon didn’t do the job, it’s that the fork changed the game. The next improvement was combining the fork and the spoon together…

When hardware can perform or improve tasks that knots alone cannot, they are at their best. When hardware gets in the way and makes a system more complex, they are at their worst.

UPDATE: A lot of folks have been asking me to break the gallery out into individual photos since the gallery seems to be broken on some devices. I will try to add a few more hardware options in time as well, to show various options. This is by no means meant to be exhaustive, exclusive, or to endorse a particular product.

 

The humble Lark's head knot. I use this often to rig up hammocks and tarps.
The humble Lark’s head knot. I use this often to rig up hammocks and tarps.
An eye splice (w/locked brummel) on the end of a line makes a handy connection point. Unlike knots, splices like this are not meant to be "undone" and are considered permanent fixtures.
An eye splice (w/locked brummel) on the end of a line makes a handy connection point. Unlike knots, splices like this are not meant to be “undone” and are considered permanent fixtures.
The soft shackle "carabiner" is a replacement for a full-size carabiner. Like the spliced eye, a soft shackle is a "knot" that is not meant to be taken apart.
The soft shackle “carabiner” is a replacement for a full-size carabiner. Like the spliced eye, a soft shackle is a “knot” that is not meant to be taken apart.
One way to use a Prusik knot: an adjustable connection point for a tarp.
One way to use a Prusik knot: an adjustable connection point for a tarp.
The titanium Whoopie Hook is another minuscule device that takes the place of a full-size climbing carabiner, often used to connect a hammock to a webbing strap. Simple, straightforward, strong.
The titanium Whoopie Hookis another minuscule device that takes the place of a full-size climbing carabiner, often used to connect a hammock to a webbing strap. Simple, straightforward, strong.
The titanium Tarp Flyz (4.5 g) are perfect for tarp ridge lines, providing 3:1 mechanical leverage to easily get a tarp taut with a quick, no-knot wrap.
The titanium Tarp Flyz (4.5 g) are perfect for tarp ridge lines, providing 3:1 mechanical leverage to easily get a tarp taut with a quick, no-knot wrap.
Toggles can also be used for load-bearing hammocks. In this example, the webbing spreads the load across the stick and helps focus compressive forces instead of bending forces, so the stick/toggle doesn't need to be very big. The toggle replaces the need for a carabiner, but it is still a hardware item and very useful for allowing quick adjustment and easy pitching and take-down.
Toggles can also be used for load-bearing hammocks. In this example, the webbing spreads the load across the stick and helps focus compressive forces instead of bending forces, so the stick/toggle doesn’t need to be very big. The toggle replaces the need for a carabiner, but it is still a hardware item and very useful for allowing quick adjustment and easy pitching and take-down.
Another toggle example, this time used to hold a tarp. This example isn't as secure. In practice, I'd add a small loop and tie a prusik knot here, but the toggle represents a makeshift hardware device that is useful but isn't carried.
Another toggle example, this time used to hold a tarp. This example isn’t as secure. In practice, I’d add a small loop and tie a prusik knot here, but the toggle represents a makeshift hardware device that is useful but isn’t carried.
A stick toggle used to connect an under quilt to a hammock. Many folks opt for a small metal or plastic biner or clip, but a toggle works just fine. Technically, I'd consider a toggle "hardware" as it isn't a knot. It's super useful but doesn't have to weight down your pack.
A stick toggle used to connect an under quilt to a hammock. Many folks opt for a small metal or plastic biner or clip, but a toggle works just fine. Technically, I’d consider a toggle “hardware” as it isn’t a knot. It’s super useful but doesn’t have to weight down your pack.
One of the more common hardware devices: the Figure-9. I rarely use this device, opting for smaller, lighter devices when the need for a mechanical advantage and ease-of-use are important
One of the more common hardware devices: the Figure-9. I rarely use this device, opting for smaller, lighter devices when the need for a mechanical advantage and ease-of-use are important
The Dutch Clip, here in titanium, weigh 7 g, but more than make up for their weight by making it quick to connect/disconnect webbing strap.
The Dutch Clip, here in titanium, weighs 7 g, but more than make up for their weight by making it quick to connect/disconnect webbing strap.

hardware-dutch-hook

A LoopAlien is a like a two-headed figure-8 belay device, but miniaturized and full of surprising uses.
A LoopAlien is a like a two-headed figure-8 belay device, but miniaturized and full of surprising uses.

Now it’s your turn. Are you a knot guy, a gear head, or somewhere in between? What are your go-to knots? What hardware devices do you use regularly?

 

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73 responses to “Knots vs. Hardware”

  1. James Arber Avatar
    James Arber

    For a tautline alternative, look up cawley and farrimond hitches, IMO are better quick release. I believe that the tautline or any fiction hitch under tension would eventually begin to work the outer sheath away from the inner strands ie para cord.

  2. […] Also on the inside, and nearly easy to miss, is a small zippered pocket located near the gathered end. Inside this pocket was a length of cord that is designed as a ridge line where you can clip the bug netting. The line isn’t long enough to be used as a continuous ridge line that some folks are probably familiar with, but it will reach the hammock suspension, which works fine. The line is actually really stiff—similar to the line I found on the ENO tarps. I loved that ENO included two small cords, each about a foot (30 cm) long, that they had tied and used as prusik knots along the ridge line. Someone has been paying attention. […]

  3. Justin Carlin Avatar
    Justin Carlin

    Do you spice your loops for prusik knots or tie the ends as is pictured in with the larks head?

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      It depends on the material. Some line cannot be spliced because they aren’t hollow. But more often I just tie fisherman knots. It’s faster/easier.

  4. Ken Avatar
    Ken

    Excellent overview of useful knots, hitches and hardware. I encourage people new to camping tarps, hammocks and similar gear to become comfortable, competent with the basics that you recommend in your book and articles first. Then after a lot of practice with those learn to use time saving hardware and impoverished methods for when hardware is lost or not available. I have some H.W. from Dutch and Nite Ize but Titanium carabiners rated at over 500 lbs load are the most versatile for me, not strong enough for mtn/rock climbing but you can hang a hammock from or stuff like water bottles from front of backpack or canoe, bike and many other applications during the day with or without rope/webbing hitches. 9 grams each from vendors like Kieth. Multiple use saves weight, space and money.

  5. John Jenkins Avatar
    John Jenkins

    Knots vs. Hardware. Does one effect line strength more than the other?
    I read an article on line failure with knots that stated (Adam Long et al),A knot’s strength depends largely on the radius of the first bend as the loaded end of the rope enters the knot,” they comment. “A very tight bend will result in a weaker knot than one with a more gradual bend” (16). As Warner put it, “knots with the greatest load applied to
    very sharp bends are weakest” (Fresh, 23). The greatest load is always on the first curve.
    (The Study of Knot Performance Exploring the Secrets of Knotted Cordage to Understand How Knots Work.Revised December 29, 2005. AllAboutKnots)
    So does the same apply to hardware. The first curve or bend of the line around a piece of hardware is severe compared to a knot. Does that make the line fail sooner on hardware?
    Your book which was very informative, I am new to hammocks and the book helped a lot.

  6. Charlie J Avatar
    Charlie J

    I really liked this article. You provided a very balanced argument for both sides. I also learned about some new hardware that I want to buy. haha

    I am definitely in the middle. I use knots for pretty much everything, even my hammock. But when it comes to hardware, I can’t seem to get enough for climbing or backpacking.

    The people raising the question about braking strength of the rope compared to the first bend in the rope. As a challenge course manager, this is a real concern. If a rope is bent in half on one steel climbing carabiner, it can lose ~75% of it’s overall strength. If the rope is bent over two carabiners, it can lose up to 50% of its strength. I use sheer reduction blocks that bend the rope over a 1 foot area to minimize the sheer on the rope, allowing it to retain all of it’s strength. We also have redundant knots and carabiners to clip into participant harnesses.

    So, from my personal experiences, I like to use both knots and hardware. While hardware is really cool and easy to use, make sure you know your knots well as a back up for any situation. A good balance of both is the best way to go.

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Thanks Charlie. I agree: moderation and balance are important.

  7. Walter Avatar
    Walter

    Derek

    Thanks for coming down to Tucson yesterday. Can you clarify the knot you tied on the carabiner with the Hennessey?

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      You’re welcome Walter! It was great to meet you and the other participants. The knot we practiced was the slippery Becket Hitch. You can see a series of photos on this post, just scroll down.

      1. Walter Avatar
        Walter

        Thanks Derek. What about tying a Hennessey into a carabiner? Do you use a slippery Lark’s hitch?

        1. Derek Avatar
          Derek

          Slippery clove hitch. But if you want lighter, skip the hardware and tie a slippery becket hitch. For smaller diameter line on some Hennessy models, use a double Becket hitch.

  8. Matt G Avatar
    Matt G

    I use a stick “toggle” for another purpose. My setup uses simple 1″ webbing to connect to the tree. When I tie water knots in the webbing (to join the ends for one big loop, or to make a small loop at one end), I put a small stick into the knot so I can untie it easily. This works better than slipping the knot.

    Another knot I would add to the list is the timber hitch.

  9. Rich Avatar
    Rich

    One knot I love is the poachers or scaffold knot. A sinching noose knot that with small pebbles you can make tie points anywhere on a tarp. Also ties sacks closed.

  10. Doug Avatar
    Doug

    No mention of a good old square knot

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      That’s a good knot for sure. Not a lot of application for hammock use but still a good one to know.

  11. curt Avatar
    curt

    Derick, do you have illustration for making an eye splice with locked brummel? thanks. i am hooking a dutch hook on a piece of zing it for my tarp ridge line.

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      I will in my upcoming book. Nothing right now. There are some good tutorials on YouTube in the time being. Sorry!

  12. Vernon Nease Avatar
    Vernon Nease

    CINCH BUCKLE …from Dutchware … man you can’t beat the price nor the ease of setting up your hang when using these….and…Dutch is a cool guy, and very easy to deal with.

  13. Craig Avatar
    Craig

    Just curious, what is the advantage of a Dutch clip over a common carabiner? It just doesn’t seem to offer anything new.

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Weight, bulk, and speed. Highly desirable for gram weenies 🙂

      1. Craig Avatar
        Craig

        I guess that makes sense… although I can’t imagine that a Dutch clip weighs less than a gram or two over an aluminum carabiner, and it’s no smaller. As for speed, it takes maybe a quarter of a second to open a ‘biner. I guess some people are just a lot more obsessive about it than I am…lol

        1. Derek Avatar
          Derek

          The titanium clips are tiny compared to a biner! A climbing carabiner (Black Diamond neutrino) weighs 36 g compared with a Dutch clip at only 16 g.

          1. Craig Avatar
            Craig

            I use wiregate carabiners that weigh only 24 grams and are more than strong enough, and I like the added safety that the gate offers over the Dutch clip. The difference in weight of 2 quarters isn’t significant to me, especially considering the huge cost increase for Dutch clips. But I guess that’s why there is such a wide variety in equipment… different strokes for different folks! Thanks for the info.

          2. Derek Avatar
            Derek

            Yup. Another item in favor of a carabiner is the rounder edges. Some worry the sharp edges on the clip

    2. txyakr Avatar

      Dutch clip versus Aluminum carabiner? Why do elite cyclists spend $5k to $25k or more on an ultra light weight special purpose bicycle when a cheap steel frame bike from the local Walmart would get them from point A to B just fine? Perhaps they want to go further faster? Perhaps they don’t weigh over 300 lbs? Dutch clips aren’t for everyone, they are only rated for 300 lbs. Very low bulk, also not the lowest weight, a knot is lower, found stick for MSH is lower, Dyneema soft shackle weights less. Everyone has different objectives and goals. Carabiner needs to be smooth for rapid decent when rappelling and many other purposes, but if used properly the webbing strap should not slid along the edge of a Dutch clip much at all, the sharp edge helps to hold it from slipping much like with a cinch buckle. To file it smooth would defeat some of its functionality. Please don’t rappel of the side of a mountain with a Dutch clip! Wrong tool for the task.

      1. Craig Avatar
        Craig

        Ummmm…. thanks… I guess? Of course, no one ever suggested rapelling with a Dutch clip. And I’d hardly compare a climbing-rated carabiner to a cheap WalMart bike. And I’d certainly not compare the good ol’ boys I’ve seen using Dutch clips to “elite cyclists”. As for the weight issue, I’ve never seen anyone over 200 lbs using a hammock, but maybe some do. That’s not a concern for me. But you do make one good point – the fact that carabiners are excellent for both climbing and hammocking, and Dutch clips are useful only for hammocks, makes carabiners an even more logical choice for me. I value multi-use gear over specialized, limited-use items. But like you say, it’s all about the individual’s objectives and goals.

  14. Ben Avatar
    Ben

    I absolutely love your stuff!!! I own your book and have read it many times. I also run cross country and at the meets, I love to hang my hammock with my friends. I want a fast and easy way. I was thinking to do a marlin spike hitch in the webbing and use the carabiner (holding up my hammock) as the toggle. So the toggle would be the weight bearing point. I would probably add a half hitch on top of that just to be safe. Does this sound like it would work? Thanks for all you do!

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Yes. That is a very common method.

  15. Bill Wilson Avatar

    He Derek, one of my favourite hitches is the taut line (and it’s variants) because you can tension after tying. In my experience, though, it doesn’t work well with webbing. I can tie it, and then tension it, but it usually slips under load… so I end up tying a few half-hitches afterwards to minimize the slip. However, I’m not satisfied with this.

    Do you have a recommendation for a hardware-free webbing hitch that duplicates the functionality of the taut line?

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      For a hammock? Try the Becket Hitch. For guy line, I like a modified truckers Hitch that Andrew Skurka uses.