3-Person Hammock Stand

The Byer of Maine Paradiso Double Hammock on the shores of Lake Powell, Arizona.
The Byer of Maine Paradiso Double Hammock on the shores of Lake Powell, Arizona.

Back in 2010, I published some instructions for making a 3-person hammock stand on HammockForums.net. I’ve updated the illustrations and information and am posting it here for easier access. 


I’ve spent a lot of time and money trying to find a great hammock stand for my tree-less backyard and at events (e.g. car camping, music festivals, Boy Scout camporees) when or where trees are not available. Having a stand that travels well (portable), is easy to assemble, and doesn’t cost a fortune are also bonuses.

Enter the 3-person hammock stand.

This is not my own design, but it is inspired from a tensegrity stand used during the 1998 Burning Man event. Seeing the hammock between the struts was revalatory, so I had to try it out. I purchased everything at Home Depot for under $40, well under the “too expensive” radar[1. This is a great price, considering most commercial stands range anywhere from $60 to $200 or more]. Construction was fairly easy, but did require a drill and a few drill bits for the holes.

Materials

QTY Description Unit Cost (est.) Total (est.)
3 2 × 3 × 8 studs (the struts) $1.50 $4.50
6 3 ft (1 m) rebar (the stakes) $1.35 $8.10
1 2 ft × 0.5 in (61 × 1.25 cm) hardwood dowel (the pegs) $3.00 $3.00
6 2 in (5 cm) steel O-rings or steel carabiners (to minimize abrasion on stakes) $3.00 $3.00
~250 ft (76 m) Rope/line (I purchased three 100 ft (30.5 m) of 3/8 in (1 cm) poly rope in different colors for a total of 300 ft (92 m) $8.00 $24.00
TOTAL US$42.60

NOTE: Instead of poly rope, which I found to stretch a little, you could use some 7/64 Amsteel for increased strength, lower weight and bulk, and virtually no stretch. Consider using 6 welded steel O-rings (or climbing-rated carabiners) to protect cords from abrasion against the rebar.

Construction

YATS-set-up

Drill two 1 in (2.5 cm) holes on the top of each strut, spaced 1 in (2.5 cm) apart vertically, and 1 in (2.5 cm) from the top edge).

Drill one 1 in (2.5 cm) hole near the bottom of the strut, 1 in (2.5 cm) from the bottom edge.

After building the stand, I realized I needed better anchor points for the hammock so I drilled a hole (1/2 in/13 mm) near the two top holes where I placed a 4 in (10 cm) dowel. You can add anchor points further down the strut to better accommodate your hammock. I ended up adding a second anchor point at 4.5 ft (137 cm) from the bottom of the strut.

Rope Assembly

The top rope is one line, 50 ft (15.25 m) in length. Once set-up, it creates a triangle with approximately 14 ft (4.3 m) sides.

Cut 3 bottom ropes at 33 ft (10 m) each (e.g., cut a 100 ft (30 m) line in thirds).

Cut 3 side ropes at 33 ft (10 m) each (e.g., cut a 100 ft (30 m) line in thirds).

SET-UP

  1. Set up the stakes in a hexagon shape. The radius should be 14 ft (4.3 m). The easiest way to do this is to have two 14 ft (4.3 m) strings. From the center point, measure out for your first stake point with the first string. From there, use the second string from the first stake and the string from the center point to determine the next stake point. Use this pattern to determine the six stake points.
  2. Tie off the side and bottom ropes. Middle the ropes and insert the bight through the bottom or second-to-top hole respectively and tie a Lark’s Head knot to secure.
  3. Thread the top rope through the top holes. Pull the rope to take up the slack and the stand will rise. I tied a figure-8 on a bite on one end and used this as the anchor point to tie a Trucker’s hitch to get the structure taut.

NOTE: The inexpensive poly rope that I list and use on this stand often needs to be set or pulled stiff when you first get it. Some folks have complained that the rope stretches, and that seems to be the case on the first few uses as the rope is getting pulled stiff. Basically, the rope is only loosely braided and must be tightened up. Once this occurs, the line won’t stretch as significantly. I’ve made several stands using the same inexpensive materials and I take about 15-30 minutes tightening up the top and side ropes until all the fibers are pulled tight. The Trucker’s hitch really helps with that process.

I made some minor tweaking in the knots to make sure the posts were at a near 60-degree angle.

Take-Down

This hammock stand comes down quickly once you loosen the Trucker’s hitch. With the top rope loosened, the rest of the ropes are easily unhooked from the rebar stakes.

After the initial set-up, I leave all the ropes connected to the posts. This allows for a quicker set-up next time.

Getting the rebar stakes out is the hardest part, depending on the ground conditions. Use a pair of vice grip locking pliers to twist the stake around and then it easily comes out of the ground.

Pros

  • Easy to construct
  • Lighter
  • Portable
  • Inexpensive
  • Sturdy
  • Up to 3 hammocks supported

Cons

  • Large footprint
  • Not free standing (must be anchored)

3-person-hammock-stand-tarp

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138 responses to “3-Person Hammock Stand”

  1. John Avatar
    John

    So these are probably dumb questions, but am trying to buy the materials I need to make a run at this thing so here goes.
    What type of rope did you use? I’ve finding several different types of poly rope (diamond braided, hollow, twisted, etc), which kind did you use exactly and does the working load of the rope matter much?
    Also, are the 3 foot rebar stakes necessary? Just thinking about driving those things in to the ground and wow, this Arizona soil is HARD and not looking forward to that. Could you go shorter with those?
    Anyhow, thanks for the help

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      I picked up the braided poly rope from Home Depot when I picked up the wood and stakes. The longer rebar stakes are important because of how much tensions you put on the struts. I use a small mallet to drive the stakes in. I live in Arizona too! it can be hard, but at our last trip up to Lake Powell, it was important to get a deep stake into the sand, even though it was hard soil. The rebar’s smaller diameter driven by the mallet really helps it to go into the ground easier. I also recommend a pair of locking pliers to pull twist and pull the rebar out once you’re done.

  2. JC Avatar
    JC

    Hi Derek, can you give more details on the tarp sizes you recommend for getting max shade out of this structure? I’m kind of confused by the diagrams. Thanks for the amazing guide!

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Sorry for the confusion! It’s really simple, and a basic square tarp is actually the best! A 9×9 or 10×10 would be perfect, either square or turned as a diamond like I show in the illustration.

  3. Sam Avatar
    Sam

    Thanks so much for this design, and for keeping up on answering questions about it after all these years! I’m working to put one of these stands together for a week-long desert camping event this fall, and the one place I’m running into confusion with this design is in the question of equilateral triangles. 60° angles provide for the most strength and stability, but based on the design it looks like there are some angles that are at 60° — the wood struts where they meet the ground, the corners in the top rope — and others that can’t possibly be 60° angles because of a difference in the lengths of the sides of the triangles.

    For the ground and side ropes to create an equilateral triangle with 60° angles, each of the sides created by the wood and ropes would need to be the same length, so theoretically the rebar should be no more than 8′ apart, to match the length of the wood. Placing the rebar stakes 14′ from each other means that those triangles won’t be equilateral, even if the wood makes a 60° angle with the ground. The pyramid shape created by the wood+ground rope+side rope would have to be lopsided, not a perfect tetrahedron.

    Am I misunderstanding something about the design? Or are 60° angles only important in a couple of key areas (where wood meets ground, the top rope)? Is the 14′ measurement important, or just designed to give enough space to hang hammocks between the wood struts? Thanks in advance, and thank you again for sharing this wonderful idea with the internet!

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      You are correct — the triangle isn’t equilateral. It’s more of an ideal or approximation than reality. The struts are more important to have at that angle. You can adjust the design to make the struts shorter, for example, or make the ropes longer. Aiming for equilateral keeps the stretching the a minimum and makes the loads balance better, but in real life, there is a lot of fudging. The 14 foot measurement is also an approximation that can be adjusted. It allows for long hammocks and tarps to be used, but you can shorten it to some degree. The photos show how hammocks fit.

  4. JC Avatar
    JC

    I did it! I made this stand a week or two ago and can’t wait to bring it to the burn this year. Thank you so much for the design and sharing you thoughts and answering questions.

    Here’s a photo of me right after setting up -> https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj1BL_0hsgv

    One thing that helped me was to tighten the bottom ropes first, to help keep the bottom of the struts in the correct position. I then left plenty of slack on the top lines which pull down. After raising the straights to slightly > 82 inches from the ground (the correct length for 60 degrees) I tightened them down. Worked great but definitely took a few tries and some trial and error.

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      That’s awesome! Glad it worked out and thanks for your insights. Your smile says it all! Best of luck at the burn!

  5. Tony Avatar
    Tony

    Thanks so much for this how-to! We did this setup at Hulaween this year and it worked perfectly. We did a lot of testing beforehand, and settled on cut and spliced amsteel 7/64 for the rope. I can give more details to folks that want it, but we found the weakest part of our system was the rebar (we used 4 foot in relatively sandy soil) and as the rebar shifted naturally, we would just pull slack out of the top rope. In our tests, we loaded 4 adults on the frame with no problem including a double hang on one side with nothing else loaded.

    Our site also had a nicely placed tree that we used to add a fourth hammock to the mix, coming off of one of the 2x4s.

    To top things off, I sewed up a Silnylon triangle shaped tarp (~435 square feet) that kept off the sun and rain.

    Pictures here on this Reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Hammocks/comments/dt23e2/our_4x_hammock_setup_with_homemade_silnylon_tarp/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Very cool! Thank you for sharing and for your support.

  6. Michelle Avatar
    Michelle

    Does this only work on flat ground? If there was a slight hill would it be an issue?

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      The tensile forces change when you put this on a slope, so I wouldn’t advise it. Some undulation is okay, but I wouldn’t set this up on a slope.

  7. Dave Avatar
    Dave

    Just built this. Rock solid, perfect size for my hammocks and tarps. Perfect for our family of three. Thanks! Will be hanging in the yard tonight.

  8. Dan Hamstra Avatar
    Dan Hamstra

    Instead of rebar, do you have any experience or thoughts about using auger style ground anchors? You’d need a bigger ring or perhaps rated carabiners or quick links to get past the eye of the auger. Or perhaps auger all the way flush into the ground and run the ground and side lines through the eye of the auger stake? Thoughts or experience of pros and cons of augers vs. rebar?

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      I’ve used some smaller auger anchors with the Tensa stand that seem to work okay, but I don’t think I’d trust them with the loads that this 3-person stand uses. The rebar is by far the cheapest and most robust option.

  9. David Arbon Avatar
    David Arbon

    I built this using the poly rope as you show on the diagrams. Would para cord work instead of the poly? I use Amsteel for hanging the hammocks. That works really well.

    I don’t like the amount of stretch the poly has. Even after using it a bunch, mine seems to come loose/stretch. I used taut line hitches to take up slack, but that is hard to slide on the poly after it has been in one spot for a while.

    I am thinking of getting some of those military rope dog bone looking tightners. I think that will work better than hitches.

    Thoughts on para cord and the dog bone things.

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Paracord and the poly cord will stretch. It’s cheap and works (okay) but Amsteel is the best. If you’re up for the challenge, you can splice long whoopee slings and end loops with 1/8 Amsteel and it would be awesome!

  10. Steve Avatar
    Steve

    Thanks, great solution! I want to present this to our Troop as a project to build this spring. We like to hammock, but often don’t have good spots to hang (go figure while camping right). I am not an engineer, but hope to find one in the Troop that can run the numbers, but I have a couple questions. First, from other replies, it appears 3 large adults (250-300 lbs) can hang no problem, and a few mention even a double hang for 4 or 5 people on this set up. Would the double hang be stacked or on the same elevation with a 32” spreader bar? I am thinking depending on the weight it can hold (and maybe can increase the load by doubling 2×4’s or a 4×4-I know it increases weight to carry) maybe you can get up to 12 people hanging on one set up (on each of the 3 legs you have 2 side by side up higher and 2 side by side down lower). Obviously the weight of the people will matter, but if you can get 12 people in one set up, that would be AMAZING! Second, the holes and 1” dowels, are they just to prevent the hammocks from slipping down the posts? I saw several suggestions on the type of “rope” and other things to help prevent rubbing and slipping on the rebar, all good ideas. I am thinking about a jig to get the 60 degree angle right. I assume that you have to be on pretty level ground? Finally, you said it takes about 30 minutes to set up by one person, I imagine it is much quicker and easier with more people? Thanks again, I will let you know if we do it and how it turns out.

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      I don’t think I would put too many extra people on there, especially scouts — they can often get rowdy, especially in large numbers. I would stick with no more than 3.

    2. Mike Erekson Avatar
      Mike Erekson

      I’m an engineer with a structural background and I’ll comment that the 2x4s only provide compression support for the setup. The real key is the tension on all the ropes that really takes the load to hold everything up. My kids did manage to collapse the first attempt I made of this setup with lots of swinging, but I didn’t have rebar anchors. The highest tension elements are the ropes from the top of the 2x4s into the ground stakes. I wouldn’t say there is an easy way to increase that load capacity without additional anchors. As Derek recommends, I would keep this setup limited to no more than 3 people and do more than one stand if you need to accommodate more people.

  11. BRETT R SKINNER Avatar
    BRETT R SKINNER

    Awesome! Ever since I read The Ultimate Hang (1st ed) I’ve been fascinated by this stand. 6 years later (and a whole lot of gear later) I think I’m ready to try.

    My dream would be to cover the whole setup in canvas and use a small wood stove to keep it warm so my wife can go to winter hangs with me. Imagine 2 hammocks and a door where the 3rd hammock would go.

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Sounds awesome! It’s a great stand. Inexpensive and easy to build. Makes a great statement at events!

      1. Derek Hansen Avatar

        A great, versatile tarp for this stand is the DD Hammocks 3×3.

  12. Mike Ereskson Avatar
    Mike Ereskson

    Derek, this is a really great field stand design. I originally made one a few years ago for my kids after I discovered the joys of hammock camping, purchased your book, and made hammocks for my kids. I recently switched the 3/8″ rope I originally got from Home Depot for 7/64″ AmSteel Blue rope (15% to 30% stronger than the 3/8″ rope) and set it up this last weekend for a cub scout campout, that was mostly a large field. There were trees along the sides, but lots of underbrush made it difficult to set up hammocks in trees for our cub scouts. I also haven’t been able to easily find rebar stakes, but have found that using chained stakes, like a Pioneering 3-2-1 or 1-1 staking with 10″ steel nail spikes and tent stakes has held pretty well even in relatively soft soil. The kids were all flipping and swinging in the hammocks with glee and everything held. The hammocks easily held my weight of 150 lb as well. It was one of the most popular features of the campout with multiple cub scouts coming to try out the hammocks throughout the day. Here’s a picture of the setup: https://photos.app.goo.gl/sf6H6Uq1MynWDzRC6 (I did add flagging tape after I took this picture since the ropes are almost invisible at just 7/64″ thickness). I’ve also adapted a single person nesting PVC stand using this basic concept and it works pretty well. I’ve slept in it multiple times without any issues except once when the ground was extra soggy. I use trees first whenever I can find good ones, but I’ve even used the PVC setup to hang two hammocks off of one tree. You can see my single-person PVC setup here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2XoMQBykJqXzmKLa7 and off a tree here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/cX8Mc3818n8VFVFKA

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Awesome! Thank you for sharing! I make and re-make this stand often whenever I need something cheap and solid. It just works! And it’s fun!

  13. Dr. D Avatar
    Dr. D

    I’m curious how this setup could be used on an incline (10-30 degrees). My thought was to setup the struts as normal (with anchor holes at the prescribed heights), but vary the hammock anchor point heights to achieve a level plane for the hammocks on the incline. Or should I vary the top anchor points as well to keep the top rope level??

    This is going in my backyard so it wouldn’t need multiple adjustments.

    Also, any thoughts about using pull line for the rope (https://www.amazon.com/Cajun-Pull-Line-Polyester-Pulling/dp/B0992TDTPW) as far as stretch?

    Thanks so much!!

    Thoughts?

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      I’m not sure I’m following you. The stand needs to be set up on fairly flat ground or it could topple. The hammock attachment points or anchor points can vary up or down the struts. I’ve used this sort of stand so many times — it’s really robust. I’ve also used really stretching / cheap rope from Home Depot (like I show in this post), to high-end yet lightweight Amsteel and Spectra. I’ve used 7/64 Amsteel with 3 occupants just fine. Stretch can be an issue, but just re-tension it after it “sets” to take out the slack. Make sure you don’t exceed the working load limit (which is different than the breaking strength).