3-Person Hammock Stand

The Byer of Maine Paradiso Double Hammock on the shores of Lake Powell, Arizona.
The Byer of Maine Paradiso Double Hammock on the shores of Lake Powell, Arizona.

Back in 2010, I published some instructions for making a 3-person hammock stand on HammockForums.net. I’ve updated the illustrations and information and am posting it here for easier access. 


I’ve spent a lot of time and money trying to find a great hammock stand for my tree-less backyard and at events (e.g. car camping, music festivals, Boy Scout camporees) when or where trees are not available. Having a stand that travels well (portable), is easy to assemble, and doesn’t cost a fortune are also bonuses.

Enter the 3-person hammock stand.

This is not my own design, but it is inspired from a tensegrity stand used during the 1998 Burning Man event. Seeing the hammock between the struts was revalatory, so I had to try it out. I purchased everything at Home Depot for under $40, well under the “too expensive” radar[1. This is a great price, considering most commercial stands range anywhere from $60 to $200 or more]. Construction was fairly easy, but did require a drill and a few drill bits for the holes.

Materials

QTY Description Unit Cost (est.) Total (est.)
3 2 × 3 × 8 studs (the struts) $1.50 $4.50
6 3 ft (1 m) rebar (the stakes) $1.35 $8.10
1 2 ft × 0.5 in (61 × 1.25 cm) hardwood dowel (the pegs) $3.00 $3.00
6 2 in (5 cm) steel O-rings or steel carabiners (to minimize abrasion on stakes) $3.00 $3.00
~250 ft (76 m) Rope/line (I purchased three 100 ft (30.5 m) of 3/8 in (1 cm) poly rope in different colors for a total of 300 ft (92 m) $8.00 $24.00
TOTAL US$42.60

NOTE: Instead of poly rope, which I found to stretch a little, you could use some 7/64 Amsteel for increased strength, lower weight and bulk, and virtually no stretch. Consider using 6 welded steel O-rings (or climbing-rated carabiners) to protect cords from abrasion against the rebar.

Construction

YATS-set-up

Drill two 1 in (2.5 cm) holes on the top of each strut, spaced 1 in (2.5 cm) apart vertically, and 1 in (2.5 cm) from the top edge).

Drill one 1 in (2.5 cm) hole near the bottom of the strut, 1 in (2.5 cm) from the bottom edge.

After building the stand, I realized I needed better anchor points for the hammock so I drilled a hole (1/2 in/13 mm) near the two top holes where I placed a 4 in (10 cm) dowel. You can add anchor points further down the strut to better accommodate your hammock. I ended up adding a second anchor point at 4.5 ft (137 cm) from the bottom of the strut.

Rope Assembly

The top rope is one line, 50 ft (15.25 m) in length. Once set-up, it creates a triangle with approximately 14 ft (4.3 m) sides.

Cut 3 bottom ropes at 33 ft (10 m) each (e.g., cut a 100 ft (30 m) line in thirds).

Cut 3 side ropes at 33 ft (10 m) each (e.g., cut a 100 ft (30 m) line in thirds).

SET-UP

  1. Set up the stakes in a hexagon shape. The radius should be 14 ft (4.3 m). The easiest way to do this is to have two 14 ft (4.3 m) strings. From the center point, measure out for your first stake point with the first string. From there, use the second string from the first stake and the string from the center point to determine the next stake point. Use this pattern to determine the six stake points.
  2. Tie off the side and bottom ropes. Middle the ropes and insert the bight through the bottom or second-to-top hole respectively and tie a Lark’s Head knot to secure.
  3. Thread the top rope through the top holes. Pull the rope to take up the slack and the stand will rise. I tied a figure-8 on a bite on one end and used this as the anchor point to tie a Trucker’s hitch to get the structure taut.

NOTE: The inexpensive poly rope that I list and use on this stand often needs to be set or pulled stiff when you first get it. Some folks have complained that the rope stretches, and that seems to be the case on the first few uses as the rope is getting pulled stiff. Basically, the rope is only loosely braided and must be tightened up. Once this occurs, the line won’t stretch as significantly. I’ve made several stands using the same inexpensive materials and I take about 15-30 minutes tightening up the top and side ropes until all the fibers are pulled tight. The Trucker’s hitch really helps with that process.

I made some minor tweaking in the knots to make sure the posts were at a near 60-degree angle.

Take-Down

This hammock stand comes down quickly once you loosen the Trucker’s hitch. With the top rope loosened, the rest of the ropes are easily unhooked from the rebar stakes.

After the initial set-up, I leave all the ropes connected to the posts. This allows for a quicker set-up next time.

Getting the rebar stakes out is the hardest part, depending on the ground conditions. Use a pair of vice grip locking pliers to twist the stake around and then it easily comes out of the ground.

Pros

  • Easy to construct
  • Lighter
  • Portable
  • Inexpensive
  • Sturdy
  • Up to 3 hammocks supported

Cons

  • Large footprint
  • Not free standing (must be anchored)

3-person-hammock-stand-tarp

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138 responses to “3-Person Hammock Stand”

  1. Colton Campbell Avatar
    Colton Campbell

    This is a testy reply! This would be a neat project!

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      It’s fun! In my backyard, we built a small fire in the middle and enjoyed resting in our hammocks while enjoying the warmth (be careful not to make it TOO big or risk a melt-down).

  2. Dave Watrous Avatar

    Looks great and I will have to try this at the next Cub and Family Weekend. Thank You Good Sir

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      One of the reasons I love the 3-person hammock stand is because it works so well at scout camporees. Back in Virginia, all our camporees were held in large fields, and every troop and pack (on Webelos Weekends) were assigned a plot. This stand makes an impressive show during inspections and draws a great crowd.

  3. Lilprincess Avatar
    Lilprincess

    A test reply, but last year we did this for our three boys. A great set up!

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Sweet! I’d love to see photos — would you mind sharing some?

  4. John Avatar
    John

    Love the blog AND your book! What’s your thoughts on using just two for a single hammock “hang”?

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Thanks John! Yes, it is possible. In fact, that’s exactly how the Handy Hammock is designed. I’ll have to give it a try with my current stand and see how it works…

  5. Chris Fowler Avatar

    In GA if you can get that stake in the ground to almost 3 feet you’ll never get it back out. Permanent part of your yard. 🙂

    1. Chris Fowler Avatar

      Ooops, spoke too soon. The rebar is to be cut. I use these for everything:

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/24ea-12-Long-Military-Tent-Stakes-Bag-Quality-Heavy-Duty-Aluminum-NEW-/380392537772

      That price is way more than I pay. I get them at ham fests for $5/bag.

      1. Derek Avatar
        Derek

        I don’t know if those stakes will hold. Some people recommend bending crooks on the top of the rebar to make it easier to remove. Welding a ring near the top would also help. Those rebar can be hard to take out of the ground.

  6. Bill Avatar
    Bill

    Made this today with two scouts. Was a great easy project.
    About an hour from home depot to hammock stand.
    My Suggestions….
    Cut all ropes to size. the long lengths made it too off set. Two separate bottom ropes.
    Amsteel….. Made mine with Poly. Way too much stretch (my 220lbs probably didn’t help much).

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Great suggestions, Bill. I’m glad the designed worked. Paul at AHE recently made one with Amsteel 7/64 with success. I’m going to pick me up some Amsteel and upgrade my stand soon.

    2. Bill Avatar
      Bill

      I have now gone to mule tape for ropes. 1800# strength. And little to no stretch.

  7. Brigham Avatar
    Brigham

    Hi,
    I was wondering what type of knots you used to connect the rope to the poles and to the stakes.

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      I list the knots and techniques under the “setup” section.

      For the bottom rope you can tie figure-8 on a bight on both ends and leave them alone. The side struts can require some adjustment depending on what rope you use, so using an adjustable knot like a taut line hitch or truckers hitch is nice. After I set mine up the first time I left the side and bottom ropes attached, which makes setup faster.

      1. brigham Avatar
        brigham

        Thank you.

  8. Bryan Avatar
    Bryan

    Used your instructions here and in your book to make one this weekend. After a little trial and error adjusting rope lengths and strut distances, I successfully hung two hammocks and enjoyed a Sunday afternoon hang with my brother-in-law. I agree with you and Bill on the cordage suggestions. Amsteel would be ideal, but poly rope is cheap and works. I used a poly blend but it is very stretchy. Also, I had to use a trucker’s hitch, rather than two half hitches, on the side ropes, because the two half hitches kept slipping when I entered the hammock. Currently, I’m not using the anchor point pegs, rather I’m just wrapping my suspension straps multiple times around the struts. Do the pegs add any benefit other than convenience (i.e. safety)? Also, thanks for suggesting the different types of knots you used. Very helpful.

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Thanks Bryan! I made a new stand last month for my brother. It was an interesting exercise to make another one and I seeing what changes/updates I could make. The steel O-rings around the rebar stakes really worked well. We didn’t add the anchor pegs/dowels on the struts at all — just wrapping the webbing around the posts worked well enough. It’s more of a convenience factor. On my stand, I had adjustable Whoopie Slings that wrapped around the posts and pegs, making it easy on/off.

      That poly rope is very stretchy. When we first set up his stand we had to adjust every strut at least 3 times 🙂 Like you, I had trucker’s hitches on all the vertical cables and the top cable. Once it was ratcheted down, it worked great and we had a nice time relaxing.

    2. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Oh, I should also mention the different knots we used. For the side ropes (yellow), instead of 6 different cords, I used 3. I tied a Lark’s Head through the wood strut and then threaded the working ends through the steel O-rings that were around the rebar stakes. In this way, I could tie Trucker’s Hitches on the lines easily. The Lark’s Head worked great and didn’t slip.

      This small change in the design meant less cutting and knot tying and a more secure stand, I believe. I’ll see if I have photos I can post.

      1. Derek Avatar
        Derek

        Here’s some photos of the stand I recently made, showing details of the changes.

        1. Bryan Avatar
          Bryan

          Def like the o-ring concept….nice little mod. About what length is your single yellow side rope (30ish ft)?

          1. Derek Avatar
            Derek

            Yes. So the side and bottom ropes we cut in thirds. The rope was 100 ft so that comes out to roughly 33 ft each. Plenty of extra length for the knots.

  9. john Avatar
    john

    Derek,
    We set this stand up at the Ommegang beer festival last month and I have 2 questions. How important is the 60 degree angle and should the top rope remain taut when the stand is weighted. We found that the top of the 2x4s moved toward the middle of the stand when weighted. No failures or falls but that played havoc with our tarps and ridge lines. Any thoughts?

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      The 60-degree angle on the struts is optimal for stress reduction and to help ensure that the strut receives the most compressive forces. However, it’s an approximate, so you can be flexible.

      The biggest factor with the sagging struts and lines is the type of rope you use. I offered up what I used, the poly rope, but it is stretchy, especially when you load it with a few people. This can make the stand flex a little. I usually have to sit in the stand, and then re-tighten the ropes a few times to get the stretch out.

      It’s not ideal with that rope, however. I should update the instructions and recommend (if I don’t already) other types of rope that are less stretch prone. One of my friends made one out of Amsteel, which won’t have those issues.

      1. Chris Avatar
        Chris

        Derek,
        What is the function of the top rope, and why is 60° optimal?

        1. Derek Avatar
          Derek

          The top rope is absolutely essential. Without it, the stand won’t stand up. The top rope keeps all the struts together by keeping tension on all the struts.

          What you are attempting to create is an equilateral triangular pyramid, or tetrahedron. With all the angles at 60-degrees, it forms a very strong structure, equalizing the forces across all components. When you change the angles of the struts, you could compromise the effectiveness of the compression, so that the struts receive some bending forces (that could be bad).

      2. David Todd Avatar
        David Todd

        I’ve built this design many times and have used it here in Hawaii where I live and I’ve built it at Burning man as well. It’s great and Iove it, but the issue always comes down to the covering. I’ve used sheets, but they’re not rain proof, I’ve used tarps, but they don’t come in the right sizes and they are noisy with the wind, Also I can’t keep the rain from dumping in the middle. I’m trying to design a covering to cover all three hammocks and the area in the middle to keep the area dry. I thought about using one pole in the middle, but would still need to design a good cover. Any Ideas

        1. Derek Avatar
          Derek

          It is an odd shape to cover completely without stitching together your own tarp. I saw one person take a large tarp (maybe 20×20) and center it over the struts and use a center pole to keep the rain from pooling in the center. It doesn’t pull down on the sides perfectly, however. I could design and upload an illustration if you wanted a sketch/template to go off of?

          1. Tom C Avatar

            We use two of these frames with our Scout troop on our Annual Camp every year with Poly rope, we accept that we will nee to retighten 2 to 3 times during the week.
            As for shelter we use the standard 3×3 Sil nylon tarps in diamond formation for each hammock which results in a really cool formation where they are each attached to the ground in overlapping form in the centre.

          2. Derek Avatar
            Derek

            Sounds excellent!

  10. Steven Jarvis (@sjarvis) Avatar

    Going to build one of these this weekend for a Cub Scout campout. is the size of the struts (2″ x 3″ by 8 feet) essential to the design? Can I use 8-foot long 2x4s?

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      You can use 2x4s or other hardware as needed. This was just what I used. The folks whose stand I based my design from used much larger beams as struts. I was trying to find something as light and portable as possible to use at scout camporees. Please share photos of your set-up at the campout! I’d love to see them.

    2. Bill Avatar
      Bill

      I have used 2×4’s. Just check the rope lengths. I think they are long. I had to shorten.

  11. Capt. Doug Avatar
    Capt. Doug

    Derek first let me thank you for this sight and your book both are fantastic.
    I just built one on in my back yard to test for an upcoming scout camp out…very cool I weigh in at about 255 and once adjusted it doesn’t move at all..
    A couple of questions.
    Can you tell me how far the feet should be from the center point and each other….I seem to have a lot of rope left on the base ( green ) ropes.
    And a comment….I put a truckers hitch on each of the Yellow ropes to get some leverage on tightening them. I did an eye splice on the tops of the yellow ropes as well as one end of the blue…

    1. Capt. Doug Avatar
      Capt. Doug

      Derek
      Disregard my questions I just found that the length for the ropes on a different sight….had myself and 2 kids hanging in the back yard and it never budged…

    2. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      I’d love to see some photos of your finished stand. I’m glad it was working for you!

  12. Jim Boggs Avatar
    Jim Boggs

    If you put a central post in the middle, could you also hang three more hammocks in the center?

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      First, I don’t think the distances will be long enough. Second, that center post would need to be anchored to the ground somehow, or if it was a post cemented deep in the ground. Otherwise, I don’t believe it would work.

  13. Brian Avatar
    Brian

    Could this design be opened up to allow for 4 people (enough for my whole family)? I assume by adding a fourth stud. Thanks.

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Possibly. A triangle is sturdier and equalizes better, especially when not equally loaded. It’s worth experimenting, but there might be a better solution. The footprint would also be larger. I’d probably go with a modified turtle/dog stand by lashing a square with tripods under each vertex.

  14. Ryan Taylor Avatar

    Derek, phenomenal setup! We plan on making a few of these to use at the Bonnaroo Music and Arts festival this year. Got a few questions for yah:

    * Would it be better to cut the struts on an angle at the bottom so they sit flush with the ground?
    * Also, to fit this rig in my car could I cut the struts down to two 4.5ft sections and bolt them together?

    See Image: http://i.imgur.com/yEEvSVS.png

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      Thanks Ryan. There is no need to cut the struts. The struts are taking compressive forces, driving them into the ground. As to cutting the struts in half and using a coupler, my inner risk meter begins to rise. The segments introduce a weak point that may fail. On this stand, since the load is not symmetric, the struts get pulled at different angles, which will stress those joints.

      If it were me, I’d just strap the three 2x4s on top of my car. If you are intent on constructing something, I would consult an engineer.

  15. Paul Avatar
    Paul

    This is a great jig, Derek! I built just one strut this weekend and attached it to my clothesline with poly rope. Very solid! I have a question for you. Is there any reason why we couldn’t use a single rope (66 feet) for the bottom and sides ropes? You could tie a lark’s head around the top of the strut in the middle of the rope and then just string each side around the rebar and tie a single trucker’s hitch somewhere along the bottom near the strut. I’m going to finish stand (build the other two struts) this week and may try this unless you advise against it.

    1. Derek Avatar
      Derek

      If I understand correctly, the answer is yes. I need to update this post because the last two stands I’ve made were simplified a little. For each strut I used a single line for the side and bottom ropes and middled them and used a larks head knot to attach to the strut. I also use steel rings on the rebar to prevent abrasion. Truckers hitch to tighten.