Portable Hammock Pipe Stand

UPDATE: For more information on portable hammock stands, check out my guest post on Section Hiker.

The hammock pipe stand has been around for a while. I believe Speer was the first to build one back in 2004. The Jacks from Jacks ‘R’ Better built a similar pipe stand for their displays out of 2 in. (5 cm.) threaded pie. I used these stands during Trail Days 2012 when I worked with the Jacks in their booth. The stand has a very simple construction (there are plenty of complex variants), travels well, and is easy to put together. I built mine from 1 in. pipe and it’s just as sturdy and costs less.

I’ve used a few commercial hammock stands in the past, but the problem with these backyard stands is that they flex once you get into the hammock. This poses a problem if you want to pitch a tarp on the stand, as the tarp will sag once the hammock is used. Stands with a horizontal bar eliminate this problem. This stand uses 6 ft. (1.8 m.) pipe lengths creating a nice 12-ft. (3.6 m.) span that will accommodate most tarp configurations and a variety of hammock sizes and styles. For indoor use, you could get away with a 10 ft. (3 m.) span and five foot leg length.

I threw this illustration together as a service to those looking for the original Speer instructions; I hope you enjoy!

hammock pipe stand

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197 responses to “Portable Hammock Pipe Stand”

  1. Adkihn Avatar
    Adkihn

    Hi there, considering this project since there are no trees in my backyard. Would the original specs in the picture be able to hold two people (300-310lbs combined) in a double hammock? Worried about bending and swaying.

    1. dejoha Avatar
      dejoha

      You could make a V-stand with the pine. Thicker pipe will give you more stability. I’ve done a lot of gear demos and have had individuals who pushed that 300 lbs limit and were just fine.

  2. Eric Powell Avatar
    Eric Powell

    Hi Derek,

    I just built this stand, and am trying to rig a no- sag Hennessy Hammock on it per your instructions in the video below. Seems like the 12 foot length with this stand isn’t long enough? I’m new to this. Any pointers? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSUn6zPuyFU

    P.S. As a magazine Art Director, I really appreciate your ability to package content. You do great work.

    1. dejoha Avatar
      dejoha

      Thanks Eric! Hammock stands introduce a challenge because your hang points are limited. I don’t really have a solution to keep everything together. For using the stand, I would separate the tarp. When you only have 12 feet, it only gives you a few inches (if that) to tie up your tarp and hammock and the angles don’t work well.

  3. Paul Munday Avatar
    Paul Munday

    Hi Derek,
    I am looking to make this stand as it seems to be the easiest DIY stand. I am having trouble finding threaded pipe so have been looking at non threaded pipe and joints that fix using grub screws. Would this work do you think?
    Many thanks
    Paul

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Great question! I would guess that they would work. Pins would also work if you drilled holes clean through join and pipe.

      1. Paul Munday Avatar
        Paul Munday

        Thanks for the reply Derek. I’ve got a friend trying to get me the parts cheaply so have left it up to him whether he can get the threaded pipe or not. If I use the unthreaded pipe and joints I’ll let you know how it goes.

  4. Kerri Avatar
    Kerri

    One of the problems I’ve had with the threaded pipe has been getting dirt or grass in the joints when assembling or disassembling, regardless of how careful I am. I would suggest that grub screws have an even smaller diameter and may be more prone to the inevitable dirt. I’ve also found that even though I’m using galvanised pipe, where they machined the threads for me, I’m getting a bit of rust which also makes them harder to screw together. A bit of WD-40 can help there

  5. Liam Avatar
    Liam

    Question,how does the hammock hang with the webbing. Webbing is just the standard tree straps correct? And how does it stick to the pipe? Wouldnt it just slide down?

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      There are lots of ways to keep your suspension on the poles. I usually just use a webbing strap, wrapped multiple times around the pole. Some folks have broken up the pole with a T-joint to provide a strong section to hang from, but I don’t find it necessary (plus the extra cost and build complexity). Others have wrapped some Duct tape around the pole for added gripping.

      1. Liam Avatar
        Liam

        OK thanks for the quick reply, I might try something like this.

  6. Karen Avatar
    Karen

    Is it possible to use PVC Pipe or Black Steel instead of Galvanized Pipe

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      A lot of people have tried PVC and failed. The stresses are just too great. You’d need thicker pipe.

  7. Madison Vaughn Avatar
    Madison Vaughn

    Does it matter if the top connecting pipe is two separate pipes or just one continuous pipe?

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      You can use a continuous pipe. It would be stronger. The segments were for easier packing/storing.

  8. Nach Avatar
    Nach

    Hi Derek, would the shorter version (10ft span/5ft leg length) work for a 11ft hammock? FYI I’m only planning to use the stand indoors and w/o tarp.

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Yes, you can adjust the size, especially if you aren’t using a tarp.

  9. sauce Avatar
    sauce

    Hey

    Thanks for your great idea

    I am wondering if it is possible to use 3 pipes of 24” and joint them using unions to make one 72”

    So a total of 16 pipes of 24” for easier transportation

    A 24” pipe won’t fit in my backpack Lol !!!

    1. sauce Avatar
      sauce

      sorry a 24” will fit in my backpack but not a 72”

      1. Derek Hansen Avatar

        Well Sauce, I think you missed the point. “Portable” is chosen carefully to describe this stand, and many stands like it. Portable simply means it is easy / easier to transport. There are some stands that are truly made for backpacking (rare), but more often folks want something that can be packed in a car for base camps, river trips, etc., and this pipe stand is a very popular stand for this purpose. It doesn’t require anchoring, which means it can be erected indoors. I use it often for demos and presentations.

    2. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Segmenting this stand weakens the connections, especially on the main ridgeline. I would be cautious.

  10. John Avatar
    John

    Would this work in a square shape with essentially 4 of these linked together to be able to hang 4 hammocks from each one? Would be cool with a fire pit or something in the middle if that configuration works

  11. Dan Watts Avatar
    Dan Watts

    I added an extra 2 foot length in the middle with two couplings rather than unions. 14′ x 6′. Makes it more similar to a tree hang to me. Tempted to add a two foot extension on each upright as well to give more flexibility. Awesome design.. I should have done this a long time ago.

  12. Tim Heyland Avatar
    Tim Heyland

    I like this plan but are the joins between the top rail and the uprights strong enough to stop the frame from going out of “square”. My back yard slopes in all directions so I’m concerned that the frame might become a parallelogram (90 degrees between top rail and uprights increase to 100 or 110 degrees) and weaken the join between the top rail and uprights.

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      This stand (and most stands) is NOT designed to use on any kind of slope. It must be on flat ground.

      1. Tim Heyland Avatar
        Tim Heyland

        Would the same be true of the stands that have sloped ends? I see that Lowes and Home Depot sell them with hammocks meant for “lounging around the pool”. Those frames must be designed to withstand a fair amount of bending since there is not top piece to keep the two ends from coming together. Any idea how much of an slope in the ground is too much?

  13. Dan Innamorato Avatar
    Dan Innamorato

    Derek,
    Instead of threaded pipe which can be difficult to unscrew after being loaded, you might try Kee Klamps [https://keesystems.com/product-category/fittings/kee-klamp/]. Unthreaded pipe slides into these & is secured w/set screws. VERY fast assembly & disassembly. Also angled clamps not available as threaded fittings that can be used as braces.

    1. Josh Simpson Avatar
      Josh Simpson

      So I actually made an order with Kee style clamps for my build – However even though all the pipe and clamps are for 48.3mm the discrepancy is HUGE. As each clamp is about 2mm wider than the tube. So even after screwing the clamps in, they only tighten the X axis. leaving each pipe to have 2mm at least of movement in the Y axis.

      This is especially noticed with the base T clamps, as that 2mm give equates to one hell of an off angle at the top of the frame.

      Annoyingly none of the makers of this style of clamp have threads at 90 degrees to each other, always leaving one axis free to move and wobble about far too much.

      If I find a solution I’ll try to add it here, but as the next clamp size down is 6mm smaller. It won’t be a simple method.

  14. NorCal Hanger Avatar
    NorCal Hanger

    Thanks for the plans! I just picked up 3/4” ID (1” OD) black pipe schedule 40, 0.25” thick walls and made of iron. The options were limited at my local Home Depot.

    Tested it and works well. I weigh 240 lbs and even had my 40lb daughter in it with me. No flex.

    However, there is a bit of sway along the ridgeline. Needs corner braces maybe. I’m going to try some guy line from the top elbows down to the ground in-line with the ridgeline and out a few feet from each upright to try and stabilize the ridgeline sway. Waiting on some line to come in from Dutchware.

    Others, do you also experience ridgeline sway? It’s a good few inches minimum each way. Wondering if that’s expected from the design or a consequence on the smaller pipe I’m using (smaller but still extremely solid and rigid).

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      By “sway” do you mean the pipe is bowing in the middle? If so, you may want to reduce the amount of weight on the stand. Larger OD pipe helps. Or, in my book I have an alternate method that uses awning pipe and has a more secure structure with no splaying or bowing.

      1. NORCAL HANGER Avatar
        NORCAL HANGER

        Sorry, no, by sway I just mean movement along the ridgeline axis. It rocks forward and backward when I move around a lot or get in and out. I’d guess 3” each way from center (e.g. 3” toward my head, then sways back 6” to my feet, then 3” back to center and stationary). There’s no movement side to side, along the leg/feet axis; only movement along the ridgeline axis.

        There’s no bowing or bending whatsoever.

        Is the movement/rocking along the ridgeline normal?

        I feel like I might be able to prevent or at least significantly reduce the rocking along the ridgeline axis by adding guy lines to the elbows and going out and down to the ground along the ridgeline axis.

        Thanks for the reminder about your book though, I keep meaning to pick it up!

      2. NORCAL HANGER Avatar
        NORCAL HANGER

        Derek I picked up The Ultimate Hang 2, the only stand I see is the 3 person stand. Am I blind? 😉

        More importantly, do the pipe stands you been in and have built rock a little (what I called sway) along the ridgeline axis? If so and that’s normal, I won’t worry about it.

  15. JP Avatar
    JP

    Hi, I’m a hammock beginner. I recently got a Warbonnet Blackbird XLC. The foot anchor is recommended to be around 16″ higher than head anchor. Would this stand still work? Thanks JP

    1. Derek Hansen Avatar

      Any stand can work. You don’t need to have one side higher, just shift the hammock so the foot end is closer to the stand than the head end and you’ll achieve the same result as if you had the foot end higher.