Portable Hammock Pipe Stand

UPDATE: For more information on portable hammock stands, check out my guest post on Section Hiker.

The hammock pipe stand has been around for a while. I believe Speer was the first to build one back in 2004. The Jacks from Jacks ‘R’ Better built a similar pipe stand for their displays out of 2 in. (5 cm.) threaded pie. I used these stands during Trail Days 2012 when I worked with the Jacks in their booth. The stand has a very simple construction (there are plenty of complex variants), travels well, and is easy to put together. I built mine from 1 in. pipe and it’s just as sturdy and costs less.

I’ve used a few commercial hammock stands in the past, but the problem with these backyard stands is that they flex once you get into the hammock. This poses a problem if you want to pitch a tarp on the stand, as the tarp will sag once the hammock is used. Stands with a horizontal bar eliminate this problem. This stand uses 6 ft. (1.8 m.) pipe lengths creating a nice 12-ft. (3.6 m.) span that will accommodate most tarp configurations and a variety of hammock sizes and styles. For indoor use, you could get away with a 10 ft. (3 m.) span and five foot leg length.

I threw this illustration together as a service to those looking for the original Speer instructions; I hope you enjoy!

Categories: Hang a Hammock, Illustration, Instruction, Workshop

diy, jacks ‘r’ better, pipe stand, portable stand, speer hammock

197 responses to “Portable Hammock Pipe Stand”

Trey

September 26, 2015

Does anyone have any thoughts on the ability of this stand to double as a spot to hang a hanging chair. Or will this put too much stress on the cross piece and cause it to bend? I am thinking of using this stand in my apartment since all the studs are metal and not good for hanging hammocks. I was hoping this stand could do double duty depending if I was looking for a place to lay down or sit up. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Reply
1. Trey
  
  September 26, 2015
  
  And for a little more information on my plans, I was going to use a solid ten foot span across the top since that is all the space I have and I thought I would have a better chance of it working double duty.
  
  Reply
2. Derek
  
  September 26, 2015
  
  If you hang a chair, use the piles not the top bar.
  
  Reply
Trey

September 26, 2015

When you say “use the piles” do you mean to hang the chair from the upright? If so, I am not sure how you are planning on hanging the chair from them. I guess you could tie a rope across the top between the two uprights and make it as tight as possible and hang the chair from that. I guess I can play with that and see if I can keep off the ground.

Reply
1. Derek
  
  September 26, 2015
  
  Typo. I meant poles. Yes, you would need to put the stress on the poles. If you hang straight down on the ridge pole you risk damaging the pipe.
  
  Reply
Davep785

October 19, 2015

I will soon purchase Warbonnet Ridgerunner. It seems to require at least 18′ length. Will the pipestand work (maybe three 6′ poles at the top)? Would a turtledog stand work better?

Reply
1. Derek
  
  October 19, 2015
  
  You could make the pipe stand work for sure. You will need a longer distance to span the Ridgerunner any way you go.
  
  Reply
Randy Howell

November 24, 2015

Hi Derek! Been following your page since May when I decided to start camping again after 40 years and bought my first hammock. Just decided today to build this. I used 1.5″ schedule 40 and it’s perfect. I’m a big guy and didn’t want any issues. Had to make some adjustments on my suspension system to make it work but it’s perfect. Sleeping in my back yard tonight! This will be perfect to take car camping in case I can’t find trees that work but it’s main use will be my back yard! Thanks a ton – and I love your book!

Reply
1. Derek
  
  November 24, 2015
  
  Thank you Randy!! I’m so glad it worked for you. Send photos! Theultimatehang@gmail.com
  
  Reply
tim

December 6, 2015

Has any one built this stand with 3/4 inch pipe? I’m wondering if it would work if the stand was 10ft long instead of 12ft?

Reply
1. Derek
  
  December 6, 2015
  
  10 feet will work fine. You just won’t be able to hang a tarp between it.
  
  Reply
  1. tim
    
    December 7, 2015
    
    you say between it? do you mean between the hammock and the 10ft cross piece? Could I put the tarp over the cross piece? What would the disadvantages be to putting the tarp over the 10ft cross piece vs under it? I ask because I am trying to build a double stand that would hold two hammocks ( two separate 10ft cross pieces) for a festival. Basically I am looking at having two single stands joined together at the base.
    
    Reply
    1. Derek
      
      December 7, 2015
      
      Most hammock tarps have an 11 foot ridgeline. This poses a problem if you are trying to create a free-standing hammock stand because a large tarp will extend past the support pieces. I’ve seen a pipe stand that uses an elbow joint at the top to create a “V” stand so two hammocks can hang side-by-side but use less pipe. I hope I’m not misunderstanding your design.
      
      Reply
2. Mike
  
  June 25, 2016
  
  I built my stand to exact measurements above but used 3/4 since that was all I could find in my area. It’s working great so far, 32 hours and counting, holding me at 235 lbs.
  
  Reply
18 DIY Hammocks And Hammock Stands For Total Relaxation

March 11, 2016

[…] A few old pipes can be used to make a DIY hammock […]

Reply
Mark

April 2, 2016

I built a pipe stand from 1 1/4″ and it’s REALLY HEAVY. Are you familiar with this one? http://www.hammeck.com/store.html#!/Hammeck-Stand-400/p/51812241/category=13535026

Reply
1. Derek
  
  April 2, 2016
  
  Steel is heavy. Yes, I’ve seen it. Looks interesting.
  
  Reply
Matthew Ng

May 3, 2016

Hello!

I am interested in using this design to build a hammock stand in my apartment.

Metal pipes and fittings are really expensive in Singapore. So I will be giving bamboo poles and pvc fittings a shot.

I am 183cm tall and about 67kg. Can I simply adopt these dimensions without modifications?

Kind regards,
Matthew

Reply
1. Derek
  
  May 3, 2016
  
  For using bamboo (a fantastic idea) I would make a turtle-dog stand that lashes two tripod stands together with a central pole joining them. It’s easy to set up and can be made to accommodate different areas, including your room.
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Ng
    
    May 5, 2016
    
    I did read up on the turtle dog stand but most of the builds I have come across uses some form of metal plates and screws to attach to ply woods. And I cannot adopt the same idea for bamboo as it will split. How do you suggest I attach the central pole to the two stands by lashings? Is it possible to just rest the central pole atop the two stands?
    
    Is there a guide you could recommend?
    
    Kind regards,
    Matthew Ng
    
    Reply
    1. Derek
      
      May 5, 2016
      
      I would lash the bamboo. Rest the ridge pole on top and lash it on too.
      
      Reply
Sqid.

July 11, 2016

How well do ya think a 1″ x 14′ stand would hold up 2 hammocks using a spreader bar? Need to go larger diameter?

Reply
1. Derek
  
  July 11, 2016
  
  I would go bigger or make a V pipe stand
  
  Reply
Sqid

July 11, 2016

You mean something that had 2 verticals at the head end and a single vertical at the foot end? 2 horizontal pipes in v pattern would probably require a special tarp as well. Far easier and less expensive to go larger diameter. BTW, this is only for the back yard.

Reply
1. Derek
  
  July 11, 2016
  
  Yes, go with bigger pipe.
  
  Reply
Ray

July 13, 2016

I currently weigh ~140# and I’ve used a 1/2″ pipe stand for a couple of weeks then I added a bottom, long piece to make the stand sway less along the ridgeline. Once I did that I noticed that there was some side-to-side swaying from the 2″ nipples connecting the 2 T-fittings at the bottom. The swaying isn’t bad if there’s just me in the hammock, I just notice it. There are quite a few threads showing from those close nipples, and I think I may take a couple of wrenches and grind the two fittings tighter on the close nipples if I keep the this configuration.

I use 5 ft. sections on all the main pieces (the longer bars are made of 2 5 ft sections) and I think 2 ft. sections for each foot side (so each foot is 4 ft. wide).

I have a threaded coupling on the bottom long bar and a union on the top. I don’t like the way the union flexes when I only had the top bar, that’s why I put the bottom bar in. I put the stronger, threaded coupling on the bottom bar because I figure I’ll occasionally step or rest my foot on the bottom bar and that bar will take more stress when I do.

I was always careful to setup my lines so that my weight is taken up by the two upright bars, and the top long bar never takes any weight directly. This puts the pressure on the top bar in compression (forces pointing mainly toward the middle of the long top bar). If I hang my body from the center of the top bar it flexes too much and I’d be worried that I’d break the union fitting.

I found that my current setup is fine for sleeping but the bottom bar bugs me so I was thinking of doing away with the bottom bar by going to a 1″ setup.

From what I’ve read, 1″ pipe should be more than enough for me. I avoided it earlier because I knew how heavy it is.

I’m thinking of making a second set of feet for if I take the frame outdoors.
I know I’ll be lazy about cleaning off the dirt and I currently use the frame in my bedroom so I can clean the outdoor feet at my leisure if I go camping,

I’ve been spending way too much time researching how useful whoopie slings are…LoL, the one time I used my hammock outdoors (two palm trees at the beach) I just took the flat strap that I got in the climbing section of my now defunct sporting goods store ($15 for 30 ft.) and adjusted the water knot I put in it.

People seem to be way too concerned about their hammock angle…I’ve played around with different hang angles and I just adjust the angle of how I lay…as long as my hammock starts out at sitting height.

For my indoor hammock hang, whoopie slings are not good (too close) but if I were to run a ridge line or two, I think the whoopie slings would be handy…a piece of wire with some line and I have my own, custom length whoopie slings.

Thanks Derek for starting this discussion.

Reply
1. Derek
  
  July 13, 2016
  
  You’re welcome! Thanks for participating.
  
  Reply
2. Ray
  
  July 16, 2016
  
  One side note: I have to check the fittings for tightness, especially the union joint fitting.
  
  Not sure why, maybe a combination of the thin pipe flex and a settling in of the joint threads due to my weight but the last adjustment was about 4 threads in…I noticed that one of the upright legs was flexing a bit much above the T-Fitting. I had to partially disassemble that side to grind it in.
  
  The union joint fitting is easy to check and usually requires only a small adjustment but you can see the improvement in the straightness of the pipe line going through the fitting,
  
  Reply
  1. Gene Culver
    
    July 18, 2016
    
    Pipe fitting have a tapered thread system intended to fit up for static pressurized systems like water and gas distribution. While you can hang a hammock on a frame of this pipe, the components are not intended to structurally support a dynamic load such as a swinging hammock or someone getting into or out of it.
    That you have to tighten or grind your fitting joints is indicative of this limitation to your application. The strength of pipe structures is dependant on the rigidity of the joints. Larger pipe systems can developed stronger joints but will be heavier.
    Piping systems for dynamic loads like hand rails and scaffolds have parallel sliding joints with additional components like set screws and/or pins to fix the joint together. These systems aren’t typically available at the big box stores. Industrial supply folks like Grainger and McMaster Carr do have these materials. They won’t be cheaper.
    I have spent some time trying to come up with a design for a light weight, compact, inexpensive, and adequate hammock stand for camping. Many parks don’t allow hanging from trees in heavily populated parks, like Great Smokey Mountains which are near me.
    My current best practice design includes heavy walled aluminum tubing with spliced straight joints and a system of tie out lines to hold the pole in place until I can get into the hammock. The poles are at about 45 degrees, close to the hammock, and the tie outs spread around to support front, back, and out from the top of the pole. Also requires a ridge line.
    This system is not ready for prime time yet. It is still bulky, ok for car or truck camping, still not good to my satisfaction for cycling, and not for back packing (my goal).
    The poles take most of the load in compression and the tie outs just hold the pole in position and resist cross axis loads.
    Any ideas, let’s hear them.
    Enjoy the woods!
    Gene
    
    Reply
    1. Ray
      
      July 22, 2016
      
      Hi Gene, thanks for your input.
      
      I consider the tightening of the joints, not a limitation, but a settling in…kinda like the factory break-in period of new cars…you don’t say that a new car has a limitation because it has a break-in period.
      
      For your described frame, it sounds interesting, but I don’t like to trust guy lines in a movable system if there’s a chance that my not falling depends on them…call me funny but around this area there’s plenty of loose soil/sand that can fail and plenty of hard pack that’s difficult to break through.
      
      Unless you can build a mono-molecular frame (2 poles?) I don’t think that dragging along a frame for backpacking is viable…but I would be interested if you find a solution 🙂
      
      Reply
robert

August 29, 2016

How about using aluminum pipe? Its a lot lighter less weight to carry on long hikes.

Reply
1. Derek
  
  August 29, 2016
  
  Maybe for single pole stands but this type of stand wasn’t intended to be carried.
  
  Reply
Michael

October 13, 2016

For all you DIY’ers. The use of 1″ PVC schedule 40 is no longer a consideration. After spending close to $60 on materials,( as I was going to build more than one) this construction failed to support even my youngest at 49lbs. Tries many different support techniques, it just does not hold up. Do not waste your $$$ on 1″. I will try one more model of 2″ and will let you know how it comes out.

Reply
1. Derek
  
  October 13, 2016
  
  Thanks.
  
  Reply
2. Toby Benjamin
  
  April 12, 2017
  
  Did you ever get to try this with 2″ Schedule 40? Hoping to do just that…
  
  Reply
Jim Williams

May 1, 2017

Hi,
I built one of these and it works great with my GE, but I want to also use it with my 90degree Gamma. It’s just a little too short for that. Do you think adding a 1 or 2ft pipe with either a coupling or a union, would affect the structural integrity much? It seems like it shouldn’t matter. It’s just taller is all.

Thanks

Reply
1. Derek
  
  May 2, 2017
  
  You can make it taller, yes. That is easier/stronger than making it too wide.
  
  Reply
  1. Jim Williams
    
    May 2, 2017
    
    Thanks Derek. Do you think 1ft is enough for the 90 degree or should I go another 2 feet?
    
    Reply
    1. Derek
      
      May 2, 2017
      
      You’re looking for about a 45-degree hang angle. I’d play with the measurements, but I don’t think you need to go that high.
      
      Reply
Joseph Edwards

May 8, 2017

Hi, and thanks for this wonderful plan. I think you mean “stands with a horizontal bar… .” You are a great teacher.

Reply
1. Derek
  
  May 8, 2017
  
  Thanks!
  
  Reply

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