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Portable Hammock Pipe Stand

UPDATE: For more information on portable hammock stands, check out my guest post on Section Hiker.

The hammock pipe stand has been around for a while. I believe Speer was the first to build one back in 2004. The Jacks from Jacks ‘R’ Better built a similar pipe stand for their displays out of 2 in. (5 cm.) threaded pie. I used these stands during Trail Days 2012 when I worked with the Jacks in their booth. The stand has a very simple construction (there are plenty of complex variants), travels well, and is easy to put together. I built mine from 1 in. pipe and it’s just as sturdy and costs less.

I’ve used a few commercial hammock stands in the past, but the problem with these backyard stands is that they flex once you get into the hammock. This poses a problem if you want to pitch a tarp on the stand, as the tarp will sag once the hammock is used. Stands with a horizontal bar eliminate this problem. This stand uses 6 ft. (1.8 m.) pipe lengths creating a nice 12-ft. (3.6 m.) span that will accommodate most tarp configurations and a variety of hammock sizes and styles. For indoor use, you could get away with a 10 ft. (3 m.) span and five foot leg length.

I threw this illustration together as a service to those looking for the original Speer instructions; I hope you enjoy!

hammock pipe stand

195 thoughts on “Portable Hammock Pipe Stand”

  1. So I’m not your average sized bear…..@250#’s, would a 1″ setup work or should I just stick to the 2″. Also my eno hammock has beaners and no straps (yet), what type of hardware would you suggest for beaner usage?

    1. Based on my experience and those I consulted when building my stand, I think you’d be fine. If you want to play the safe side, go with the 1.25 inch pipe. I think the 2 inch pipe is overkill and heavy.

  2. Sounds like a good idea but I wish you Americans used metric measurements so the rest ofthe World could understand!

    I am thinking about making a stand using bamboo. There would be a tripod on both ends. The hammock would be attached to the ridge pole. The ridge pole would be hung from the tripod by some rope.

    1. Please let me know if you went through with this idea. I’m curious about how the metrics of this turned out. There are actually a lot of bamboo forests around where I live (who knew its an invasive species) and might be worth the shot at making something from bamboo before shelling out for steel pipes..

  3. I just built a stand out of 1″ pipe and i weigh 330lbs. it holds me just fine, but I think I’m gonna be borrowing a pipe wrench from work and really tightening the fittings down and then welding the fittings that stay put so it adds some sturdiness.

    also, it seems that maybe putting foam around the support bars on the ground will help stiffen it up. or I could weld feet to the ends of the 24″ sections to add some stability.

    it is a bit rickety for now, but has a lot of potential for my uses. I’ll report back once I beef it up.

    1. Sweet! Be sure to post some pictures on Facebook. The Jacks recommend adding elbows on the feet for stabilization. I haven’t had a problem on carpet, but it is wobbly on hard, flat surfaces. Adding some of that pool floating noodles could also work for a lot less.

      I took a pipe wrench and ratcheted all the fittings that were “permanent.” The others were hand tight so I could disassemble it for demos.

      1. There’s no need to weld pipe fittings that you have no intention of taking apart. You can affix (threaded) pipe fitting by applying liquid “Loctite® Red High Strength Threadlocker” I’ve tried to loosen pipe fittings after applying Threadlocker Red with extender wrenches for extra leverage, without success. If you want to separate the fittings again, you’ll need a torch. According to the package instructions, “Cured Threadlocker Red must be heated to 500ºF (260ºC) before fittings will separate.” I purchased Threadlocker Red from my local (Hawaii) NAPA Auto Parts Store (Item #765-1144). For a quick demo about Threadlocker Red, see:

  4. Hey, thanks for the instructions! What is an expected materials cost for building a stand like this? Can I just put in an order at the hardware store and have them cut the pipe to the proper lengths and then thread the ends of the pipe?

    1. I purchased all the pipe and fittings from Home Depot for about $150, if I remember correctly. I paid a premium for the convenience, but it was one of the easiest do-it-yourself stands I’ve made. You can probably get the pipe cheaper if you have access to someone (plumber, welder) who can get the pipe at wholesale and cut and thread the pipe for you.

        1. The pipe I purchased already had threads and caps on both ends. They were ready to go out of the box. I literally purchased the pipe on my way to a hammock demo. It worked great.

        2. The Home Depot I went to DID cut it and thread it for me at no charge. But the guy warned me that sometimes the machine is down bc new hires don’t always know to turn the oil pump on, and it burns out the machine.

    1. I’m not sure. Mine was built with larger diameter pipe. From other’s I’ve spoken with who’ve built stands with 1″ (2.5 cm) pipe, they said it bent and wasn’t as strong. I wouldn’t recommend the smaller pipe.

      1. Your instructions say to use 1 inch pipe, but your reply says not to use it because it bends, and you don’t recommend it. Can you please clarify?

        1. 1-inch is okay. 1.5 is better. 2-inch is bomber. I think where I waiver is in WHO is using it. Less than 180 lbs? 1-inch is fine. If you’re hanging more weight, you may see some more bending and you want to be careful.

    1. You can experiment with PVC, but I don’t have any experience with the plastic pipes. I used 1.5 in (3.8 cm) stainless steel pipe. Friends of mine used the thinner 1 in (2.5 cm) pipe and said it was too flimsy. My friends from Jacks “R” Better use 2 in (5 cm) pipe for their stands.

  5. Hi Derek…I have read your posts on the building of the stand out of 1.5 inch pipe…I am thinking of building one ….do you have an updates on the materials or building the stand before I start on mine…also your book on hammock backpacking is great….going to use your ideas also to hang my tarps as well… thanks Turk

    1. Thanks for the feedback and support! The Jacks recommend 2 inch pipe for extra security, and you can add corner joints on the legs to add stability. I used 1.5 inch and left off the corners for some cost savings. The 1.5 inch pipe has worked great for me.

    2. Hi Derek,

      You are an inspiration to the hammock community. Thanks for your tireless good humour. Looks like I’m off to the pipe yard this afternoon to make one of these stands. I’ll let you know how it works!


    3. Did you or anyone every try a PVC option?? Trying to get stands for a Boy scout troop, and PVC would be much more affordable (pending no emergency room visits)…

      1. I’ve never tried PVC, and I’m not aware of anyone yet to make one (although a few have wanted to). For your scout group, do you need a free-standing anchor? If you’re in a field, I would recommend the 3-person hammock stand instead. It’s much less expensive than even PVC and can accommodate up to 3 hammocks at a time. There are other less expensive options for a free-standing anchor, like the Turtle-Dog stand (I’m working on plans for that one soon).

      2. I would think you would have to use really thick/big diameter PVC pipe to safely support your weight. Even then, I would worry about the plastic eventually weakening and failing. Just my $0.02…

    4. Great news! I finally sourced the pipes and fittings. In Australia we don’t get the same fence fittings as the US, so I had to source galvanised water pipe. The fittings are getting hard to find as most plumbers use plastic pipe now. However, for the grand total of about $AU 200 I’ve got a 1 1/4″ stand which is plenty strong enough to manage my weight, feels sturdy, and gives me a great hang. Hooray! Thanks again Derek.

      1. Hi Kerri, alot of US plumbers use either copper or PVC in homes, but industrial businesses (shops, parking lots, warehouses, plants) still use black pipe (steel). Normal, unsupported PVC can’t handle the pressures required in multi-story buildings requiring alot of water flow.

        I’m not a plumber but I have worked for a friend that has installed fire sprinklers for a few decades. So you might try to find an industrial supplier for fittings for your next build. They’re used to dealing in bulk but if you smile and tell them what it’s for, they might sell you 8 fittings but probably not any pipe. My friend usually buys pipe in 24 ft sections cuts it and threads it himself. Good luck.

    5. Hey, thanks for this post! I just had an idea. I don’t think I’d feel comfortable using wraps to attach the hammock to the stand, so I might try putting T-joints at the top instead of elbows, that way I can just use an S hook or something to go straight into the top.

      1. I’m sure you’ve already found out that wraps are easier and more secure than an S hook directly to a T fitting.

    6. What diameter pipe did you use? I purchased all the materials from Home Depot last night and it weighs A TON. Hardly seems portable. Please help, THanks.

      1. Daniel, I just went out to the garage with a ruler, just to triple-check. It’s 1-inch pipe. At least, that’s what it says on the labels. I’m not a plumber, but I believe the diameter is measured from the inside. The outer width is more like 1.5+ inches, taking into account the thick pipe walls. My instructions list 1-inch pipe, but I do mention that folks have made these stands out of thicker pipe. When I spent time with Jacks “R” Better, they used 2-inch pipe for their stands. Thicker pipe will be heavier, no question.

        “Portable” is in reference to its ability to break down into smaller pieces so it can fit into a trunk or the bed of a truck. The pipe stand is the best in this category of all my hammock stands. It’s “footprint” in my trunk is the smallest.

        I weighed my 1-inch pipe stand this morning. The pipe sections are roughly 10 lbs (4.5 kg) each, making the stand around 60 lbs (27 kg). I hope I didn’t give the impression that these stands were in any way “backpack-able.” I usually carry my pipe stand in sections, shuttling back and forth from my car. That’s about as much movement that this stand gets, but that’s what it’s designed for: car camping, backyard hangs, or doing hammock demos at expos, trade shows, or inside retail shops.

        1. Okay thank you Derek. VERY helpful. I didn’t know if buying a smaller diameter would make it lighter but even if it did I wouldn’t think by much. I am stilling hunting for a union joint then I can put this bad boy together! I purchased the 1.5 inch pipe and the 72” pipes are wayyyy heavier than 10 pounds. Do you think that 12 foot span is necessary? would a 10 foot span and a 5 foot height work all the same? Thank you for your time.

          1. Much depends on how you want to use it. At 10 ft, you’ll have just enough room to hang most hammocks, but not larger hammocks, unless you hang them with a significant sag (not a problem for spacious Brazilian or Mayan-style hammocks). But with a deep sag, you’ll also need more height so you’re not on the floor. Use my hammock calculator to figure out the right hang point for your hammock and use that as a general aid when building your stand (just remember to allow a few inches for wiggle room — the calculator is exact, but reality requires more forgiving).

            I wanted a 12 ft span because that mimics real world hanging more closely. It allows me to string up a tarp with a little room to spare on each side, which in turn provides enough space and height for the hammock suspension.

            I have other stands, like the Vario, that can adjust to a very small footprint. This works with some hammocks, but it will just allow for the hammock to clip on and no room for a tarp.

      2. Do you think it would work with 2 36″ pieces vs. 1 72″ piece for the vertical supports? Or would it lose too much structural integrity to support the loaded hammock?

        1. I wouldn’t recommend shorter poles as the stress could bend the pipe. Unless you add a larger coupler over or through the two sections, it is risky.

      3. Hi, saw the post and will be making one this weekend. will be using 1.5 or 2″ pipe. will report back with pic/maybe a video . I do alot of Off roading Jeep 4×4 wrangler rock crawling, and alot of times the camp sites we stay at dont have tree’s located in locations close to my other wheeling buddies, so this will be nice to carry in my jeep , just incase, plus, if i dont need it, i can use it with a tarp as an extra shelter area for cooking or just hanging out at night.

        1. Fantastic! My uncle does a lot of jeeping in the southwest of Utah where trees can be scarce. A portable pipe stand should work out well!

        2. I am going to modify, to make this easyer to store/carry. instead of 6ft sections (72inches), across the top i am going to do 3 4 foot sections and for the two up right poles at each end i am going to make those 2 3 foot sections, sure i will have a few more items, and union joints, but it will be smaller in length when apart, thus easyer to store.

          1. Ok, my specs are as follows, this works, very sturdy, and fits in the back of my jeep wranger JK 2D. a few more
            connections, but im 250lbs and no issues.

   for the immages.
            My specs are as follows.
            3 (4ft sections 1″)
            4 (3ft sections 1″)
            4 (2ft sections 1″)
            2 90degree elbows
            6 “T” joints

            really sturdy, i will make a few adjustments but overall it all fits easy in my back, and if trees are around, then this can act as a canopy with my tarps.

            1. Hello, Kent. I am so making this! I know how to thread pipe and have a buddy with the machine. Chuck it in a duffle bag with a pipe wrench and sweet hangin under the stars! Cheers

      4. I have since modified the end pipes, the images on the site above are 2 3ft sections, i went and got 2 5ft sections which still barely fit in my jeep. this cuts the 4 pole ends to just 2. the total height is not 5ft instead of 6. a bit more compact, but still plenty of ground clear with lots of adjustments.

        the biggest issue i have it getting the pip dis’assembled , i can get it on pretty snug, but break down can be a bear, need some kind of options to help hold the pip and fitting so u can unscrew it if its in snug.

        i did get a pipe wrench, its got a thick rubber strap, but it tends to slip on the round pipe.. need some better ideas
        on how to tighten, untighten this so setup and breakdown is easyer.

        1. I just want to clarify what you did for other readers because I found your response confusing.

          You had: 2, 3-foot pipe sections on each end
          You went to: 1, 5-foot pipe on each end

          Okay, so why did you change the ends? Did you find that it wasn’t as sturdy as you originally thought?

          The reason I’m asking is because using smaller pipe sections makes for easier transport.

        2. Get a tube od STL-8 it is a pipe thread lubricant that helps screw them on and off more easily. If you do not use STL-8 the pipe surfaces can gall together and make it very hard to disassemble.

        3. Hello, kent. You are supposed to use one pipe wrench to hold the pipe and a second one to tighten and loosen. If you hold the handle and grab the adjustable part you can feel it wiggle a bit? That is how it lock s onto the pipe. So you put the first pipe wrench on the ground with the open end facing up just a hair looser than the pipe. The wrench handle towards you. Place the pipe into wrench. Then take the second wrench and place on top of the pipe with open end facing down just a hair more open than the pipe. Handle towards you. Bottom wrench stays on ground and top wrench goes back and fourth like a ratchet. You will know how loose to adjust the wrench s because they will lock onto pipe when pressure applied but then unlock so you can re position for next turn without having to take wrench off the pipe. Works to tighten as well. Good luck!

      5. Thank you Derek… really cool idea, and even more so for people like me, who do not have any natural offerings to hang a ‘mock onto.

      6. Quick question: how do you set these up? Do you get both sides built and then join them at the union? Do you create each side and then attack the center pole on one side, then the other? Just curious about recommended approaches. I just got the pipe cut this weekend, but have not had a chance to set it up yet.
        Thanks in advance!


        1. I set up the legs first and then attach the ridge poles, one side at a time. Join the two halves in the middle at the union. I keep the feet and T joint attached and keep the elbows attached to the legs. The ridge poles keep one half of the union.

      7. I made a few more adjustments. keeping the 12 foot across, instead of going 72″ on the end poles i went 60. 5 feet is plenty high for me, i dont like that much sag. but over all this work. still struggling with how tight and hard it can be to break down, need some way to make the connections snug without being a pain to unscrew when u need to break it down. do u guys just hand tighten?

        1. I hand tighten mine, but as this is a car-based system (way too heavy to carry far) I carry a pair of multigrips in the car to loosen any tight joints

      8. This would raise the price a bit but Kee Klamp pipe fittings would be much easier to connect the pipes since they only require an allen wrench and they are really sturdy. I have used them in the past and i’m planning on using them for this project next.

        I will mostly be leaving this setup stationary on my patio to use with my Kammock Roo, occasionally moving it into the yard and throwing it in the truck for camping. I do have a few questions though.

        Does this design flex at all? I was considering putting angular supports between the base legs and the vertical bars to give more strength during sway. Is that over kill?

        I have noticed people using 1″-2″. What should I use? I want it to hold 300 lbs well, without any give. I don’t know what is not enough and what is too much for this project. I want it to be sturdy but I don’t want a $400 hammock stand.

        1. Hi Zach, I’m in touch with a supplier with such connections and he mentioned some of the essential connections need to be screw type to be sturdy enough. I am building this one too with perhaps a combination of the two connections, more news in a few weeks.

      9. Question for physics folks: My studio apartment is 12ft wide and walls are 8ft high. It would be really convenient to run the top bar right across the ceiling and sides right up the walls so that this system takes up literally no real estate. At 8ft, do I need the thicker pipes? Or is it the crossbeam that really holds the weight and needs to be thicker? I’m running a 14 foot Brazilian to replace my obnoxious space hog of a full bed.

        1. You don’t really need thicker pipes. The trick is to make sure everything fits. To thread the pipe you’ll need some extra space for the fittings. It might cost less to get a floor stand like the vario stand since you don’t need the rigidity of the top bar to keep a tarp taut. The vario is adjustable and works well with large Brazilian hammocks.

          1. The floor stand would be much cheaper, but I’m in a ~300 square foot studio and can’t afford the floor space. I currently keep a mattress against the wall and flip it down after moving a couch in order to sleep. It’s uncomfortable and super tacky. The upper bar hammock stand, if I measure right, would take up effectively zero space. I’m just concerned about making sure it’s structurally sound.

      10. Hi Derek, great site! I got a Mexican hammock from a UK based company, very large and comfy triple woven cotton but the required pitch is 3.4meters with a height of 1.8m. That excludes most stands but for various other reasons I also want to make this pipe stand. I found a local supplier of tubes and fittings but I have the choice to go with sleeve couplings, with an Allen key nut in the sleeve to tighten it up. Do you think this will work too? Here’s the sites with the products:
        I’m afraid it may be too wobbly, I could put in some diagonals in the corners to stiffen it up but those fittings make it a lot more expensive. Or I could just go with threaded ends…
        Onno, UK

      11. Hi Derek,
        I’d been looking for a hammock stand for the garden and camping trips, but none seemed practical until I came across this one, alas it is a bit big and heavy.
        So I spoke to some engineering friends over a beer (the best ideas are often fuelled this way) and have come up with the idea of using Aluminium Scaffold Poles and Kee Klamp fittings. This should drop the weight (Hopefully), I’m also shortening the ridge poles to 3 x 4 feet and putting a joint in each upright, so the longest length should be 4 feet long and will hopefully fit in my car.
        I have a welder friend cutting the poles for me, once I have everything and have done a trial run, I will take some photos and post them. I may cut the size of the whole thing down once I’ve tried it out, as you hang calculator says I don’t need such a big stand?

        1. The 12ft length is to accommodate a tarp. If you won’t need that then the stand can be shorter. Is love to hear how it goes!

      12. Great post! I’m a little confused though. At the beginning/top of your post in the diagram, you specify 1 inch pipe. Same at the beginning of the replies/questions. Then on 8/22/12 you say you used 1.5 inch pipe, and that people you’ve talked to who used 1 inch pipe thought it wasn’t strong enough… So as a sub 175-pound person, would I need 1 inch or 1.5 inch pipe? Thanks!

        1. I think what I’m using is 1-inch pipe. I’m not a very good pipe expert because I think I was measuring the outer diameter vs. the inner diameter to get those different results.

      13. Just a quick comment to help those that are pipe illiterate :).
        Black and galvanized pipe (the pipe that you would purchase at Home Depot or Lowes) is sized different than it’s actual dimensions. A 1″ pipe is not actually 1″ in size. There is a full write up on wikipedia – search for Nominal Pipe Size. Also the “pipe schedule” (shedule 40, 80, etc.) determines it’s wall thickness. Hope that is helpful.

      14. So would 1 inch pipe (OD 1.3 inch) Galvanized (looking at big box website) be sufficient for under 200 pound hanger? Or would it be safer to go with 1.25 (1.66 OD)? Thanks, I’m pipe clueless :-).

      15. Even with wrapping web straps multiple times around the pipe, I would think the hammock would be prone to slip a bit once you put your weight in it.

        1. Hi Van, I’m sure you’ve already found your solution, but for anyone else wondering about this, I currently loop the line included with my Grand Trunk Double a few times around the upper corners of my pipe stand throw a half-hitch in to keep the wraps from moving, dangle the excess line, tie an easy to untie overhand knot (double the last section of the knot so you can just pull it to undo the knot) at the level that you want to hang the hammock, put the knot on the outside of the vertical pipe, and clip into the doubled loop on the inside portion.

      16. Derek,

        Have you tried hanging a 14-foot Brazilian hammock from this stand and if so, does it fit; e.g. it hangs correctly and doesn’t bottom out?

      17. Hi. Do you think it will be possible to hang a hammock higher and use a ladder to get into it? Was thinking then my son would have room under it for another hammock or mattress on the floor for friends to sit or sleep.
        Also, do you think sleeping in a hammock all the time is good for your body?
        Thank you for your helpful site.

        1. In my house we have set up hooks near the ceiling. It’s high but not too bad. People sleep in hammocks every day year round. It’s awesome.

      18. Hey I really like this plan over the turtledog stand in terms of space saving. I am just wondering if it would work the same using timber for the side struts whilst still having a metal bar at the top? Sort of a hybrid between the two designs.

        1. Good question. Youd need some thick strut like a 4×4. This stand works different too, with compressive forces in the bar, so as you experiment, be careful.

      19. What would your opinion be on the following. Instead of running a pipe along the top to join the sides, you run one on the bottom. Then you attach the hammock to some webbing that ran over the vertical pipe, down to the ground, across to the other side, up the opposing vertical post and attached to the other end of the hammock. My assumption is that having weight in the hammock would result in the properly adjusted strap to pull against itself rather pulling the vertical posts inwards.

        The thought behind this change in design is that it could be build with a sofa put on top of it. without the bar on top, It would look slightly more aesthetically pleasing when there is no hammock hung.

      20. For the Individuals having problems disassembling the pipe from one section to another use STL-2 or STL-8. These are pipe thread lubricants that prevent seizing and galling of pipe that is threaded together.

        You can purchase it at any hardware store that has a pipe department. It is applied upon the threads before screwing them together. A one time application is all that is needed unless you get dirt and debris in the lubricant between the threads. Would recommend covering the disassembled ends with a protective thread cap .

      21. Galvanized pipe is black steel pipe with a coating to retard rusting but it can still rust. It is not stainless. 1 inch means the inside diameter is 1 inch. I don’t know of different thickness variations in steel. Plastic and copper do. Schedule 80 pvc would be really thick and very expensive. 2 pipe wrenches are needed to tighten & untighten the pipes snug. 1 to backup the other. A coupling would be much cheaper and probably stronger than a union but not as easy to assemble. Teflon on the threads would make it easier to unscrew.. They make galvanized pipe in 1.25″ also. I am a plumber.

      22. Go to a fire sprinkler company.
        I work for one and am going to fabricate one this week.
        Bought a foldable stand/hammock online, stand only 85″ long, doesn’t fit real hammocks.
        Thanks for your stand idea!!!

      23. Woof. Alright. Got ambitious last night and headed across the street to the Home Depot to pick all the fixings and have them thread the pipe to build this stand. I wanted/hoping to toss it on my balcony of my apt to hang and chill. 3rd floor means great breeze.

        1st thing I’ve noticed (went with 1 1/4 galvanized pipe) is the weight. This sucker is heavy. This isn’t like a “Handy Hammock” so the initial plan of setting it up and taking it down all the time might be out the window. I went exact to the original plans.

        Anyone have any thoughts/comments on this thought to make it more “compact”: Cutting the 72″ ridge bars down to 36″ and adding 2 more union joints? Comprise any structural integrity (I assume some if I’m cutting it)?

        1. I’d end up probably doing the same to the legs going off of Kent’s idea from March 18th. That design looks awesome but I’m over the 200lbs mark. Probably need to stick 1 1/4.

        2. Lots of people have wanted to make smaller sections, but the coupling can bend, depending on how you set it up, and with more joints, you have more fail points. Each stand has its tradeoffs. The pipe stand is, admittedly, quite heavy. But as stands go, it’s not the heaviest nor the least portable. I use it when I do my hammock demos because it is freestanding, portable, sturdy, and works with a tarp without flexing. It’s portable in the sense that I can fit it in my car or van; it’s not something I haul on my back.

      24. Pingback: Integrating Hammocks into Parks, Campsites, and Jamborees

      25. Great idea! Thanks for sharing. Here is a idea on how to make the stand lighter.

        I built a “turtle dog” stand from 6 each 2″x2″ lumber (to make tripods), 2 hinges, and one 20′ chain link fence top rail. I cut the top rail into 2 – 6′ pieces with the tapered (flared) end fitting into the end of the other piece. I put a bolt and wing nut thru a horizontal hole drilled thru the assembled joint made by both pieces (tapered and not tapered piece) to strengthen the joint. This method could be used to replace the top pole of the steel pipe stand.

        Use pipe legs as show in Derek’s design. 1) Use threaded steel pipe “Tee”s on the top of the legs sized to allow the fence rail / pipe to fit into it snugly. Drill a hole thru outside end of “Tee” and the end of the fence rail. Then bolt together for rigidity. This would lower the total weight of the stand significantly and still provide the compression strength needed for hanging the hammock.
        2) Alternatively, you could bolt a short threaded piece of steel pipe onto the ends of the fence rail and thread it into the fitting on top of the pipe legs. This would allow your joint to the pipe to be tighter when assembled.

        I have not tried this…yet!

        1. Your 2×2 turtledog and fence rail idea is exactly what I want to do for this crazy hammock a friend bought for me in Bali. My only concern is the weight limit; to be safe I’d say 250 lbs.

          Also, how did you attach the fence rail to the turtledog stands? I’ve seen multiple methods in the videos and pictures I’ve looked at.

          I do not need to hang tarps or bug nets; this is for indoor use. If you’ve published a tutorial anywhere, I’d love to see it! Thanks!

      26. Built a modified stand last night using 1 inch (as labelled) black steel pipe (for cost) which has a 1 1/4 inch outer diameter (measured it at the store). I’ve included a link to a photo of my setup below. Modifications include 48 inch uprights rather than the spec’d 72 inch, and using two approx. 24 inch wooden 4x4s (cedar I had laying around) as the base, or feet. The two 4x4s have 1 1/4 inch holes bored about 2.5-3 inches deep so that the vertical pipes can be inserted into them. I kept the total length of the ‘ridgepole’ at 12 feet using two 72 inch pipes and a coupling (as spec’d in the drawing above). I’m just under 220lbs and the 1inch black steel had no problem holding me. Also, the shorter uprights allowed for shorter feet without compromising stability. This setup came in somewhere around $70 in my neck of the woods (Ontario, Canada).

        With this design I was trying to reduce cost while achieving a non-portable, but storable stand. This stand is optimal for use on a porch or deck as well as a concrete or brick patio. It is also somewhat portable.

      27. Hey Derek, I saved a little money on this by going to Home Depot and buying three 1″ X 10′ galvanized pipes, then having two split into 5′ lengths, and the last one split into quarters to make the legs. The whole thing breaks down into six 5′ lengths. I can’t state for fact, but the 5′ lengths, in my opinion, work the best for the 1″ pipes in terms of stability.

        It all cost me $89 total.

      28. I have a kammok Roo. Derek do you know if it would fit on a 10 foot stand instead of a 12 foot stand? space is limited.

      29. Derek,

        I’m looking at buying a Mayan double sized hammock to sleep in at home. It seems like the hammock length is 13.12ft long, with the body length 6.5ft long. Do you think that a 10ft long stand would be okay to get a proper hanging, or should I try and fit the 12ft stand into my room?

        I’ve used the hang calculator but I’m worried I’m not using it correctly, it’s telling me that the hang point would be 59.6″ at a 10ft distance. This is all very new to me and I’ve been scouring the forums to try and figure out how to do this best, there is just so much information, I’m getting a little confused! aha.

        1. I need to make some adjustment to the calculator because when I put in those numbers I get a negative suspension length. For a 10 foot span and a 13 foot hammock hung around 30 degrees, it is too long for the space. If you hang it with a deeper sag, say 45 to 50 degrees, it would fit, but the hang point is now 7.5 feet high.

          1. Ah, see I was also getting the negative hang point every other time I put it in which threw me off.

            So I guess sticking to 12ft if I can would be possibly better, it looks like that would have a 30degree angle at about 6ft? Or is that also a bit off you’d say?

            It seems to give me a negative sometimes when I put that in as well with a 13ft hammock

            1. A negative number on the suspension means the hammock is too long for the distance and angle selected. This is a bug I need to get fixed. You can fit a longer hammock in a short distance if the hang angle is extreme and the hang point is high. For some Mayan hammocks this is ideal.

              1. Thank you for your help!
                This makes a bit more sense to me now. I just used the calculator again, now that I’m on my computer and off my phone, to check for a 12ft distance with a 13ft hammock and it seems to be consistently giving me a hang height of 59.6in @ 30degree angle with a +5.1 suspension length.

                It seems to have been my phone not changing the hang distance to 12ft after putting in 10ft and giving a neg. reading. So it looks like 12ft is the way to go for the hammock that size. I appreciate the help! I’ve found this site and you very helpful for figuring out the ins and outs of the hammock world.

                One last question if you don’t mind… Do you happen to know what the impact of using an extreme hang angle with a high hang point has on the comfort of laying properly on a Mayan hammock?

                1. For big, long Mayan hammocks you can hang at a 45 degree angle and then sleep almost perpendicular. It can be very comfortable. You’ll have to play with it and see what works.

          2. Hey Derek Thanks for the info! I’ve been wanting to do this for years and tonight I bought and assembled the pieces according to the plans.

            A question on tightness though; I’ve tightened the pieces by hand as much as possible, is it necessary to use a pipe wrench to tighten them further?

            1. Most of my stand stays assembled, like the T-joint on the feet and the elbows on the uprights. These I tighten down. When I assemble I can use the stand itself to tighten it up pretty good by using the mechanical advantage of rotating the pipe. The only piece that I can’t do that is the center connector.

          3. Hey Derek! This looks like a great design. I’m hoping to build the stand for use on my small apartment balcony. The balcony is about 10ft wide by 2 ft deep. Do you think I would see any sort of compromising instability if I shortened the length of the stand to 10ft instead of 12ft, and made the four base poles for the feet 12″ long instead of 24″? Thanks!

            1. Yes, that could get dangerous. I would lower the stand height and find a way to anchor it to the ground or wall because a two foot base is very small.

          4. Does anyone have any thoughts on the ability of this stand to double as a spot to hang a hanging chair. Or will this put too much stress on the cross piece and cause it to bend? I am thinking of using this stand in my apartment since all the studs are metal and not good for hanging hammocks. I was hoping this stand could do double duty depending if I was looking for a place to lay down or sit up. Any feedback would be appreciated.

            1. And for a little more information on my plans, I was going to use a solid ten foot span across the top since that is all the space I have and I thought I would have a better chance of it working double duty.

          5. When you say “use the piles” do you mean to hang the chair from the upright? If so, I am not sure how you are planning on hanging the chair from them. I guess you could tie a rope across the top between the two uprights and make it as tight as possible and hang the chair from that. I guess I can play with that and see if I can keep off the ground.

            1. Typo. I meant poles. Yes, you would need to put the stress on the poles. If you hang straight down on the ridge pole you risk damaging the pipe.

          6. I will soon purchase Warbonnet Ridgerunner. It seems to require at least 18′ length. Will the pipestand work (maybe three 6′ poles at the top)? Would a turtledog stand work better?

          7. Hi Derek! Been following your page since May when I decided to start camping again after 40 years and bought my first hammock. Just decided today to build this. I used 1.5″ schedule 40 and it’s perfect. I’m a big guy and didn’t want any issues. Had to make some adjustments on my suspension system to make it work but it’s perfect. Sleeping in my back yard tonight! This will be perfect to take car camping in case I can’t find trees that work but it’s main use will be my back yard! Thanks a ton – and I love your book!

              1. you say between it? do you mean between the hammock and the 10ft cross piece? Could I put the tarp over the cross piece? What would the disadvantages be to putting the tarp over the 10ft cross piece vs under it? I ask because I am trying to build a double stand that would hold two hammocks ( two separate 10ft cross pieces) for a festival. Basically I am looking at having two single stands joined together at the base.

                1. Most hammock tarps have an 11 foot ridgeline. This poses a problem if you are trying to create a free-standing hammock stand because a large tarp will extend past the support pieces. I’ve seen a pipe stand that uses an elbow joint at the top to create a “V” stand so two hammocks can hang side-by-side but use less pipe. I hope I’m not misunderstanding your design.

            1. I built my stand to exact measurements above but used 3/4 since that was all I could find in my area. It’s working great so far, 32 hours and counting, holding me at 235 lbs.

          8. Pingback: 18 DIY Hammocks And Hammock Stands For Total Relaxation

          9. Hello!

            I am interested in using this design to build a hammock stand in my apartment.

            Metal pipes and fittings are really expensive in Singapore. So I will be giving bamboo poles and pvc fittings a shot.

            I am 183cm tall and about 67kg. Can I simply adopt these dimensions without modifications?

            Kind regards,

            1. For using bamboo (a fantastic idea) I would make a turtle-dog stand that lashes two tripod stands together with a central pole joining them. It’s easy to set up and can be made to accommodate different areas, including your room.

              1. I did read up on the turtle dog stand but most of the builds I have come across uses some form of metal plates and screws to attach to ply woods. And I cannot adopt the same idea for bamboo as it will split. How do you suggest I attach the central pole to the two stands by lashings? Is it possible to just rest the central pole atop the two stands?

                Is there a guide you could recommend?

                Kind regards,
                Matthew Ng

          10. How well do ya think a 1″ x 14′ stand would hold up 2 hammocks using a spreader bar? Need to go larger diameter?

          11. You mean something that had 2 verticals at the head end and a single vertical at the foot end? 2 horizontal pipes in v pattern would probably require a special tarp as well. Far easier and less expensive to go larger diameter. BTW, this is only for the back yard.

          12. I currently weigh ~140# and I’ve used a 1/2″ pipe stand for a couple of weeks then I added a bottom, long piece to make the stand sway less along the ridgeline. Once I did that I noticed that there was some side-to-side swaying from the 2″ nipples connecting the 2 T-fittings at the bottom. The swaying isn’t bad if there’s just me in the hammock, I just notice it. There are quite a few threads showing from those close nipples, and I think I may take a couple of wrenches and grind the two fittings tighter on the close nipples if I keep the this configuration.

            I use 5 ft. sections on all the main pieces (the longer bars are made of 2 5 ft sections) and I think 2 ft. sections for each foot side (so each foot is 4 ft. wide).

            I have a threaded coupling on the bottom long bar and a union on the top. I don’t like the way the union flexes when I only had the top bar, that’s why I put the bottom bar in. I put the stronger, threaded coupling on the bottom bar because I figure I’ll occasionally step or rest my foot on the bottom bar and that bar will take more stress when I do.

            I was always careful to setup my lines so that my weight is taken up by the two upright bars, and the top long bar never takes any weight directly. This puts the pressure on the top bar in compression (forces pointing mainly toward the middle of the long top bar). If I hang my body from the center of the top bar it flexes too much and I’d be worried that I’d break the union fitting.

            I found that my current setup is fine for sleeping but the bottom bar bugs me so I was thinking of doing away with the bottom bar by going to a 1″ setup.

            From what I’ve read, 1″ pipe should be more than enough for me. I avoided it earlier because I knew how heavy it is.

            I’m thinking of making a second set of feet for if I take the frame outdoors.
            I know I’ll be lazy about cleaning off the dirt and I currently use the frame in my bedroom so I can clean the outdoor feet at my leisure if I go camping,

            I’ve been spending way too much time researching how useful whoopie slings are…LoL, the one time I used my hammock outdoors (two palm trees at the beach) I just took the flat strap that I got in the climbing section of my now defunct sporting goods store ($15 for 30 ft.) and adjusted the water knot I put in it.

            People seem to be way too concerned about their hammock angle…I’ve played around with different hang angles and I just adjust the angle of how I lay…as long as my hammock starts out at sitting height.

            For my indoor hammock hang, whoopie slings are not good (too close) but if I were to run a ridge line or two, I think the whoopie slings would be handy…a piece of wire with some line and I have my own, custom length whoopie slings.

            Thanks Derek for starting this discussion.

            1. One side note: I have to check the fittings for tightness, especially the union joint fitting.

              Not sure why, maybe a combination of the thin pipe flex and a settling in of the joint threads due to my weight but the last adjustment was about 4 threads in…I noticed that one of the upright legs was flexing a bit much above the T-Fitting. I had to partially disassemble that side to grind it in.

              The union joint fitting is easy to check and usually requires only a small adjustment but you can see the improvement in the straightness of the pipe line going through the fitting,

              1. Pipe fitting have a tapered thread system intended to fit up for static pressurized systems like water and gas distribution. While you can hang a hammock on a frame of this pipe, the components are not intended to structurally support a dynamic load such as a swinging hammock or someone getting into or out of it.
                That you have to tighten or grind your fitting joints is indicative of this limitation to your application. The strength of pipe structures is dependant on the rigidity of the joints. Larger pipe systems can developed stronger joints but will be heavier.
                Piping systems for dynamic loads like hand rails and scaffolds have parallel sliding joints with additional components like set screws and/or pins to fix the joint together. These systems aren’t typically available at the big box stores. Industrial supply folks like Grainger and McMaster Carr do have these materials. They won’t be cheaper.
                I have spent some time trying to come up with a design for a light weight, compact, inexpensive, and adequate hammock stand for camping. Many parks don’t allow hanging from trees in heavily populated parks, like Great Smokey Mountains which are near me.
                My current best practice design includes heavy walled aluminum tubing with spliced straight joints and a system of tie out lines to hold the pole in place until I can get into the hammock. The poles are at about 45 degrees, close to the hammock, and the tie outs spread around to support front, back, and out from the top of the pole. Also requires a ridge line.
                This system is not ready for prime time yet. It is still bulky, ok for car or truck camping, still not good to my satisfaction for cycling, and not for back packing (my goal).
                The poles take most of the load in compression and the tie outs just hold the pole in position and resist cross axis loads.
                Any ideas, let’s hear them.
                Enjoy the woods!

                1. Hi Gene, thanks for your input.

                  I consider the tightening of the joints, not a limitation, but a settling in…kinda like the factory break-in period of new cars…you don’t say that a new car has a limitation because it has a break-in period.

                  For your described frame, it sounds interesting, but I don’t like to trust guy lines in a movable system if there’s a chance that my not falling depends on them…call me funny but around this area there’s plenty of loose soil/sand that can fail and plenty of hard pack that’s difficult to break through.

                  Unless you can build a mono-molecular frame (2 poles?) I don’t think that dragging along a frame for backpacking is viable…but I would be interested if you find a solution 🙂

          13. For all you DIY’ers. The use of 1″ PVC schedule 40 is no longer a consideration. After spending close to $60 on materials,( as I was going to build more than one) this construction failed to support even my youngest at 49lbs. Tries many different support techniques, it just does not hold up. Do not waste your $$$ on 1″. I will try one more model of 2″ and will let you know how it comes out.

          14. Hi,
            I built one of these and it works great with my GE, but I want to also use it with my 90degree Gamma. It’s just a little too short for that. Do you think adding a 1 or 2ft pipe with either a coupling or a union, would affect the structural integrity much? It seems like it shouldn’t matter. It’s just taller is all.


                1. You’re looking for about a 45-degree hang angle. I’d play with the measurements, but I don’t think you need to go that high.

          15. Hi, and thanks for this wonderful plan. I think you mean “stands with a horizontal bar… .” You are a great teacher.

          16. Hi there, considering this project since there are no trees in my backyard. Would the original specs in the picture be able to hold two people (300-310lbs combined) in a double hammock? Worried about bending and swaying.

            1. You could make a V-stand with the pine. Thicker pipe will give you more stability. I’ve done a lot of gear demos and have had individuals who pushed that 300 lbs limit and were just fine.

          17. Hi Derek,

            I just built this stand, and am trying to rig a no- sag Hennessy Hammock on it per your instructions in the video below. Seems like the 12 foot length with this stand isn’t long enough? I’m new to this. Any pointers?

            P.S. As a magazine Art Director, I really appreciate your ability to package content. You do great work.

            1. Thanks Eric! Hammock stands introduce a challenge because your hang points are limited. I don’t really have a solution to keep everything together. For using the stand, I would separate the tarp. When you only have 12 feet, it only gives you a few inches (if that) to tie up your tarp and hammock and the angles don’t work well.

          18. Hi Derek,
            I am looking to make this stand as it seems to be the easiest DIY stand. I am having trouble finding threaded pipe so have been looking at non threaded pipe and joints that fix using grub screws. Would this work do you think?
            Many thanks

              1. Thanks for the reply Derek. I’ve got a friend trying to get me the parts cheaply so have left it up to him whether he can get the threaded pipe or not. If I use the unthreaded pipe and joints I’ll let you know how it goes.

          19. One of the problems I’ve had with the threaded pipe has been getting dirt or grass in the joints when assembling or disassembling, regardless of how careful I am. I would suggest that grub screws have an even smaller diameter and may be more prone to the inevitable dirt. I’ve also found that even though I’m using galvanised pipe, where they machined the threads for me, I’m getting a bit of rust which also makes them harder to screw together. A bit of WD-40 can help there

          20. Question,how does the hammock hang with the webbing. Webbing is just the standard tree straps correct? And how does it stick to the pipe? Wouldnt it just slide down?

            1. There are lots of ways to keep your suspension on the poles. I usually just use a webbing strap, wrapped multiple times around the pole. Some folks have broken up the pole with a T-joint to provide a strong section to hang from, but I don’t find it necessary (plus the extra cost and build complexity). Others have wrapped some Duct tape around the pole for added gripping.

          21. Hi Derek, would the shorter version (10ft span/5ft leg length) work for a 11ft hammock? FYI I’m only planning to use the stand indoors and w/o tarp.

          22. Hey

            Thanks for your great idea

            I am wondering if it is possible to use 3 pipes of 24” and joint them using unions to make one 72”

            So a total of 16 pipes of 24” for easier transportation

            A 24” pipe won’t fit in my backpack Lol !!!

              1. Well Sauce, I think you missed the point. “Portable” is chosen carefully to describe this stand, and many stands like it. Portable simply means it is easy / easier to transport. There are some stands that are truly made for backpacking (rare), but more often folks want something that can be packed in a car for base camps, river trips, etc., and this pipe stand is a very popular stand for this purpose. It doesn’t require anchoring, which means it can be erected indoors. I use it often for demos and presentations.

          23. Would this work in a square shape with essentially 4 of these linked together to be able to hang 4 hammocks from each one? Would be cool with a fire pit or something in the middle if that configuration works

          24. I added an extra 2 foot length in the middle with two couplings rather than unions. 14′ x 6′. Makes it more similar to a tree hang to me. Tempted to add a two foot extension on each upright as well to give more flexibility. Awesome design.. I should have done this a long time ago.

          25. I like this plan but are the joins between the top rail and the uprights strong enough to stop the frame from going out of “square”. My back yard slopes in all directions so I’m concerned that the frame might become a parallelogram (90 degrees between top rail and uprights increase to 100 or 110 degrees) and weaken the join between the top rail and uprights.

              1. Would the same be true of the stands that have sloped ends? I see that Lowes and Home Depot sell them with hammocks meant for “lounging around the pool”. Those frames must be designed to withstand a fair amount of bending since there is not top piece to keep the two ends from coming together. Any idea how much of an slope in the ground is too much?

          26. Derek,
            Instead of threaded pipe which can be difficult to unscrew after being loaded, you might try Kee Klamps []. Unthreaded pipe slides into these & is secured w/set screws. VERY fast assembly & disassembly. Also angled clamps not available as threaded fittings that can be used as braces.

            1. So I actually made an order with Kee style clamps for my build – However even though all the pipe and clamps are for 48.3mm the discrepancy is HUGE. As each clamp is about 2mm wider than the tube. So even after screwing the clamps in, they only tighten the X axis. leaving each pipe to have 2mm at least of movement in the Y axis.

              This is especially noticed with the base T clamps, as that 2mm give equates to one hell of an off angle at the top of the frame.

              Annoyingly none of the makers of this style of clamp have threads at 90 degrees to each other, always leaving one axis free to move and wobble about far too much.

              If I find a solution I’ll try to add it here, but as the next clamp size down is 6mm smaller. It won’t be a simple method.

          27. Thanks for the plans! I just picked up 3/4” ID (1” OD) black pipe schedule 40, 0.25” thick walls and made of iron. The options were limited at my local Home Depot.

            Tested it and works well. I weigh 240 lbs and even had my 40lb daughter in it with me. No flex.

            However, there is a bit of sway along the ridgeline. Needs corner braces maybe. I’m going to try some guy line from the top elbows down to the ground in-line with the ridgeline and out a few feet from each upright to try and stabilize the ridgeline sway. Waiting on some line to come in from Dutchware.

            Others, do you also experience ridgeline sway? It’s a good few inches minimum each way. Wondering if that’s expected from the design or a consequence on the smaller pipe I’m using (smaller but still extremely solid and rigid).

            1. By “sway” do you mean the pipe is bowing in the middle? If so, you may want to reduce the amount of weight on the stand. Larger OD pipe helps. Or, in my book I have an alternate method that uses awning pipe and has a more secure structure with no splaying or bowing.

              1. Sorry, no, by sway I just mean movement along the ridgeline axis. It rocks forward and backward when I move around a lot or get in and out. I’d guess 3” each way from center (e.g. 3” toward my head, then sways back 6” to my feet, then 3” back to center and stationary). There’s no movement side to side, along the leg/feet axis; only movement along the ridgeline axis.

                There’s no bowing or bending whatsoever.

                Is the movement/rocking along the ridgeline normal?

                I feel like I might be able to prevent or at least significantly reduce the rocking along the ridgeline axis by adding guy lines to the elbows and going out and down to the ground along the ridgeline axis.

                Thanks for the reminder about your book though, I keep meaning to pick it up!

              2. Derek I picked up The Ultimate Hang 2, the only stand I see is the 3 person stand. Am I blind? 😉

                More importantly, do the pipe stands you been in and have built rock a little (what I called sway) along the ridgeline axis? If so and that’s normal, I won’t worry about it.

          28. Hi, I’m a hammock beginner. I recently got a Warbonnet Blackbird XLC. The foot anchor is recommended to be around 16″ higher than head anchor. Would this stand still work? Thanks JP

            1. Any stand can work. You don’t need to have one side higher, just shift the hammock so the foot end is closer to the stand than the head end and you’ll achieve the same result as if you had the foot end higher.

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